Banded surplice neckline May 4, 2008

As promised, here is a quickie tutorial for adding a band to the neckline of a surplice top as I did on my Cosmopolitan Dress. I love this type of finish because it is so easy and neat.

STEP 1: Once you determine the finished width of your band you will need to cut down the front neckline. My band is 1″ wide so I altered the neckline as follows:

- 1/4″ seam allowance already on my pattern
- 1″ finished band width
+ 1/4″ seam for attaching band to neckline
——-
- 1″ total removed from neckline

STEP 2: Measure the length of the neckline *on the seamline*. Yes, the photo shows me measuring at the cut edge - I was trying to pose with the left hand while the right was operating the camera! The length of the actual band will depend on a) the stretchiness of your fabric and b) your bust size. I initially cut my band 2″ shorter than the neckline but that turned out to be too long so I cut another inch off.

STEP 3: Draft band pattern: cut pattern twice the finished width (two x 1″=2″) plus *two* seam allowances ( two x 1/4″=1/2″) by the length determined in STEP 2. The bands should be cut with the greatest amount of stretch along the long edges.

Sewing is easy: fold the band wrong sides together, lengthwise. Stretch to fit neckline, serge. If you are unsure about the length of your band you should check the fit by basting it in first. I’ve done this so much that I can judge it by feel alone. If you are worried about everything being perfect even you can quarter-mark the neckline and the band. I don’t feel it’s really necessary to do that because the distance is short. Once you’ve done your permanent stitching press the seam allowances towards the garment.

I elected not to run the band around the back neckline because a) it’s easier and b) I have long hair and no one will ever see it anyway.

I serged elastic into the back neckline. To finish everything neatly sew your shoulder seams (which I cut down to 1/4″) making sure the back neckline goes 1/4″ past the finished band. Turn the back neckline snugly over the band and serge. If you are having trouble visualizing this and own Jalie 2449 it is the same finishing method. Hopefully the photos are pretty clear.

Designing & Patternmaking for Stretch Fabrics March 26, 2008

I jumped for joy when I read Kathleen’s post about a new knitwear drafting book a couple of weeks ago and went right over to Amazon.com to order a copy for myself. I tend to collect pattern drafting books but had not seen one specifically geared towards knits - my favorite fabrics!

It just arrived last Friday so I’ve only skimmed through it but I can already tell you it was worth every penny! Next on my book wish list (and also mentioned on FI):

Circular ruffle neckline finish May 4, 2007

 Some of you will remember that I made a skirt with inset godets for my mother which I did a post on this blog.

 I made a blouse from the same fabric and finished the neckline with a circular ruffle.

 I used the instructions how to measure and draft a pattern for a circular ruffle from the book

 “Couture the Art of Fine Sewing” by Roberta Carr.

 I used 3 circular ruffles for the neckline and because I did not want to finish the outer-edge with a serger.

 I doubled the patterns ( cut 6 circular patterns) and lined the collar with the same fabric for a neat finish.

 Anybody who have used a circular ruffle on a garment knows that if you want to use a facing the ruffle   tend to turn upwards toward the neck and that was not my goal, so I needed to cheat a little or used  common sense, because I was planning to use a facing instead of a bias binding.

 A ruffle which is bind with a bias binding will fall towards the garment.

The ruffle is sewn at the neckline and I did sew a hairline away from the stitching line around the neckline. I pinned the facing on top of the ruffle matching seam allowances and turned the garment inside out so I had a stitching guide from the first stitching of the ruffle  I sewed the facing a hairline inside the previous stitching.

Grade, clipped and pressed the seam allowances from the blouse, ruffle and facing.

Turned the facing to the inside but not all of it , I left a 1/4 inch (5 mm) visible on the outside which looks and act as a binding .The facing is sewed by hand in the ditch with tiny invisible stitches .The wide of the finished ruffle is 1 3/8 inch ( 3,5 cm)

Detail ruffle collar ,

The finished skirt and blouse,

Draft a Skirt with Godets March 21, 2007

 If you want to make a 6 panel skirt with godets but do not have a pattern, you can use your straight skirt pattern to make a new pattern.

For example I drafted a straight skirt with a side zipper. This skirt pattern example is 70 cm ( 27,5 inches) long and I want to add godets with a length of 35 cm ( about 14 inches) and a hem wide of 20 cm ( 8 inches).

You should trace your straight skirt pattern and divide the skirt front and back pattern by 3, marking a line 1/3 the width away from the center front and center back panels on your pattern (see the drawing below).

Mark the desired godet length on the panels and side seams.

Move the waist darts towards the panel seams.

Mark on the pattern: center front on fold, center back on fold, side front part and back side part . This will help you to see which is which if you cut the pattern pieces. You can use scotch tape and label each cut piece.

The new panel skirt pattern looks like this example,

The new panel skirt pattern parts,

Drafting a godet is easy.

Start with a vertical line which indicates the length of the godet. The length I used here is 35 cm ( about 14 inches) Mark the beginning and end of the length.

I used a width of 20 cm( ( 8 inches) so I marked 10 cm ( 4 inches) to the left and 10 cm ( 4 inches) to the right from the base line length.

From the start of the baseline which is on top, measure the length you want I used 35 cm ( nearly 14 inches) and draw a new diagonal line towards the marking 1/2 width point  at 10 cm (4 inches). Do the same for the other side. Now you need to mark the hemline which is not a straight one. You can use your measuring tape and hold it steady at the top and move the tape between the lines marking dots every 2,5 cm.( 1 inch) which you then connect .

If you want to sew the godets as insets then you can use the finished draft godet and cut this 6 times because it should be sewn at the panel seams.( front side , side and back side)

If you want to line your skirt you can use the same pattern but with some minor changes ( it is not necessary to use all the godets, a few will do to give your lining skirt enough walking ease)  Since I am making this skirt from a semi sheer fabric I used the same traced pattern but I do not want to sew the panels to avoid see-through from the panel seams. I connected the traced skirt patterns next to each other and added only a half godet ( folded on the grain line) at the side seam at front and back pattern.I redrew a bit of the side seam just above the half godet for a more fluid line. 

 

The only thing that needs to be done now is adding seam allowances to the pattern parts and you can make your 6 panel godet skirt. Another option is to make the skirt with cut-on godets instead of the separate godets.

Add seam allowances and you are done.

Enjoy your new pattern.

Pattern draft rulers March 14, 2007

Like any patternmaker I use different rulers for drafting a pattern,  most rulers have a different shape which I can use for a specific task.

The plastic curved and straight ones,

The straight metal rulers,

The dark brown wooden ruler at the top is a ruler used for  pattern drafting men’s wear which belonged to my grandfather who was a tailor.

My most used and favourite is  a set of wooden rulers made in Turkey I am hooked on these.I bought this set from a Turkish tailor who lives in  The Netherlands.

The brand name of the wooden rulers is

 Together with the above wooden ruler set I use the other 3 from beneath very regular.

I do not own  Fairgate rulers but they seemed the best and are commonly used in the U.S.

The Energizer Bunny of Patterns January 4, 2007

So how long has the Burda WOF Twist Top been with us now?  Almost 2 years?  It came out in the April 2005 issues and I tell you, this style just keeps going and going and going.

I was in the downtown Boston Macy’s during lunch today and sure enough, I spotted two variations that you might find interesting.

I’ve never seen this one before, it’s a turtleneck.  Instead of a V-neck, There is a center front seam at the upper bodice, and the rest of the top is a standard long sleeve turtleneck. Notice too there is a center front seam below the bust, and it appears that the underbust twists have been extended and turned into the lower part of the bodice top, which eliminates an entire pattern piece  I might need to give this idea a try.

Other variations I’ve seen have included using a sleeveless twist top as the upper bodice of a one piece swimsuit, and also making the underbust portion of the twist from a contrasting color fabric, or stretch lace, which I also did a while back.  Yet another variant is Diva Ann’s RTW version of the twist top embellished with a  big metal buckle at the center bust. I’ve seen her wear it a few times and it’s very cool.

Another version is one I’ve had on my mind for a while, that is, just making it into a dress, as shown below. The photo is not so good, but hopefully you’ll get the idea.  A while ago I did a version of the top with 3/4 length self-drafted sleeves, and extending that version into a dress would be pretty simple. 

This issue of Burda turns up on Ebay from time to time, so grab it if you can because and this style is a classic definitely worth having in your pattern collection

Patternmaking Calculator November 26, 2006

By Diva Georgene 

I ran across this handy pattern calculator at Pattern Stringcodes.com. Click on “software” at the end of the french curve banner at the top, and you will find a free software download for a calculator that works in inches and metric and can calculate in decimals as well as fractions. No more wondering how many centimeters 3/8 of a yard is!
I also love the feature that allows you to calcualte the radius of circle skirts - full and partial.
A handy item indeed, and now it sits on my desktop as a little icon.
I note also that Pattern Stringcodes sells basic and custom slopers. It seems like it could be a great service for those who are in the market for this, however based on a review of their sloper at Kathleen Fasanella’s Fashion Incubator blog, I would not be so quick to recommend it!. However, read up on their info on what slopers are good for - a great education on this basic building block for patternmaking.

What a Difference an Armscye Makes May 16, 2006

by Diva Ann, GorgeousThings 

I just finished making the latest version of HotPatterns’ “Great White Shirt”. I had made a version of this in its first incarnation, and had bad problems with the fit through the sleeve. The bodice fit fine, but the sleeves had huge diagonal draglines from the shoulder to the middle of the upper arm. The draglines went toward my torso. I took a picture of the original sleeve pattern and the muslin I made with it:

Note the flattened sleeve cap and the major drag line, even though the shirt is not closed on the mannequin. It was essentially unwearable. I sent a note off to Trudy, designer of the HotPatterns line, and she responded by redrafing the sleeve. Here’s a picture of my tracing of the new pattern and the resultant garment on the same form:

What a difference it makes! All the draglines are eliminated and the sleeve cap fits me perfectly out of the package. Now I know some of you who read this post have extensive pattern drafting expertise. Not me. I’m a rank beginner, and I’m just now able to appreciate what pattern drafters do. What really impressed me, other than the fit of the new sleeve cap (which has very little excess ease, by the way) is the speed with which Trudy and the HotPatterns team responded when this problem was pointed out to them. I wasn’t the only one to notice this, I’m sure. They turned right around and fixed the problem, then sent out the revised pattern to everyone who had received the first version, at no charge to their customers. That is the kind of customer service that makes me want to buy from them again and again. And I will!

You can see the complete review of this pattern at www.patternreview.com