I just adore the Hot Patterns Deco Vibe Cosmopolitan Dress and have made it several times. The scarf-style shorter sleeve is especially nice because it is covered up yet still cool enough for our steamy South Florida weather.
To achieve a really nice, neat finish on this type of sleeve it is necessary to miter the hem. This is extremely easy to do and, in my opinion, best worked out on the pattern before the garment is cut. Do this once and you’ll never have to think about it again!
The first step is to mark the hemline at the bottom of the sleeve and on the slit – in this case, 5/8″.
Next, fold up one hem allowance,
then the other. You can already see how much bulk you would need to deal with here if you were to not miter the hem.
Draw a line from the point where the hems intersect to the foldline (point). Carefully lift the top layer and mark a dot at the intersection on the underlayer.
Here I have drawn both lines from hem intersection to foldline in red. These are the seamlines.
You will need to add a seam allowance – I have added 1/4″ here.
Then trim off the excess beyond the seam allowance.
After finishing the hem edges as desired (I’ve just serged) simply line up these two edges and sew your 1/4″ seam.
Trim away the bulk at the point – this is especially important on a very peaked hem such as this.
Here is the finished miter, before pressing. Your point presser comes in really handy for pressing the seam open before turning. If you don’t have one you can use your bamboo point turner. It’s neat, bulk-free and very easy to do! I’ll post a photo of the completed dress as soon as I finish up.