A year ago I discovered on the Internet Shingo Sato a Japanese designer and instructor, and was immediately fascinated by his approach in designing a pattern, which he calls “Transformational Reconstruction“.
His approach to design is not new, since we patternmakers know how to transfer darts , add style lines etc but it has limits because drawing a pattern design on paper has less creative possibilities.
Shingo Sato’s design process “Transformational Reconstruction” which is done in 3D gives so much more possibilities to be creative.
Shingo Sato shares his designing process by giving workshops in various parts of the world like in the USA, UK, Colombia, Japan, Italy.
But he also shares his work via YouTube via numerous video’s ( at this moment he added 34 video’s)
It all start with a good basic pattern which you can accomplish by moulage/draping or drafting by hand on the flat ( paper pattern. The basic pattern which is sewn from unbleached cotton will become a new pattern after the design lines are added on a dressform.
Shingo Sato often use wavy or geometric lines for a design but also builds a pattern using his “Architectural Reconstruction”
Example of a dress design which is in my view and amazing design with all those beautiful wavy lines the dress has 8 invisible zippers which are not that difficult to sew but impeccable sewn in wavy lines is a master piece.
( I wonder if Japan has other more flexible invisible zipper brands which are more easy to press into shape than the ones we know like the brands Opti and YKK)
You can watch his video channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/trpattern
website: http://www.trpattern.com/
I ordered his book Book “Transformational Reconstruction” published and sold by Centre for Pattern Design shows 12 chapters and 2 accompanied dvd’s.
The book can also ordered from his website but you need to understand Japanese language.
If you would like to try designing a pattern using TR, start simple like this one which I made:
You can view how this is done here
I also made a dress and a top inspired by his TR design process and will post about that within a few days.
Enjoy watching the YouTube video’s and learning this way of pattern designing.
Shingo Sato is also on Facebook and he will start a TR Cutting school in Milan Italy next week where you can attend workshops, see link for more information.
Thanks to Shingo Sato for your amazing work which helps to be more creative in pattern designing.
Els, he is some kind of designer. His designs are sure to bring a smile to your face. And thank you for the “how to”.
Comment by Theresa in Tucson — December 3, 2011 @ 3:53 pm
wow That zipper dress is stunning. Where do the zips end? Does the dress come apart in pieces?
Comment by Valerie — December 4, 2011 @ 3:13 am
Wow, wow, wow…. I love the zippered dress. Thanks Els for this inspiring post!
Comment by K. — December 4, 2011 @ 3:38 am
The style you show at bottom is almost exactly like a style (#109) that I show how to make in the video I created in 1995 (Pattern making for Professionals).
Comment by Kathleen — December 4, 2011 @ 12:33 pm
You wrote it nice indeed! He has great talent and we can learn a lot from him. I myself have embarked on a several projects and made a few models. I enjoyed working
Comment by ddivna — December 5, 2011 @ 5:13 am
Love his work and live near Milan… Can´t wait for more dates.
Comment by Sewing Princess — December 5, 2011 @ 6:54 am
This is like watching a true master at work. You can learn a lot jut by watching the images. I’m impressed.
Comment by Donna@Collage Ideas — December 5, 2011 @ 3:18 pm
Wow! it’s amazing what an artist can do with a flat piece of fabric…..
Rose in SV
Comment by Rose in SV — December 5, 2011 @ 4:43 pm
This is a unique technique. IS THE BOOK adequate for learning the technique illustrated. Are there TR Technique Instructions in the US(East Coast)?
Comment by Rose — December 7, 2011 @ 4:27 pm
Hi Rose,
The information in the book is an addition to the video’s on youtube , there is not a lot of text but it could be helpful if you want to learn more about this TR Technique.
You can find information about his workshops via Shingo Sato’s website
Comment by Els — December 9, 2011 @ 9:22 am
I agree with Kathleen. It is a similar technique used on Fashion Schools, the elimination of darting through style lines. I remember using some of his techniques. Rose
Comment by Rose — December 14, 2011 @ 3:00 pm
Here’s what I wrote about him when his work was brought to my attention:
“His claim to fame is popularizing the elimination of darting through style lines. His site erroneously claims his “Transformation and Reconstruction” technique is “significantly” different from conventional pattern making since clothes are “constructed in 3D” etc but this is clearly a case of what’s old is new again. It’s nothing new. Anybody who was trained in a good school learned to eliminate darting with style lines. Which is not to say these styles aren’t a departure from the majority of what is on the market today but “his” technique isn’t his and it isn’t new. Heck, I showed how to make a style similar to one of his in the video I made 15 years ago and at lower right is a jacket of mine (circa 1992?) that has no darting in it either but it is very fitted, courtesy of the style lines. I think the value of what he has to offer is the rediscovery of design possibilities for today’s designers. And I am all for that!”
Comment by Kathleen — December 7, 2011 @ 7:32 pm
Hi Kathleen you are right, I remember reading your post back ten, it is not new.
You can see his description at one of his video’s on youtube
quote”
If you have ever thought to examine dart construction on higher quality ready to wear clothing, you will have noticed that the excess fabric on the sewn darts has been removed and that these darts follow the contours of the body.
This revelation will be nothing new to any school trained seamstress, who has been taught how to eliminate or transfer darts through the application of newly constructed style lines.
The Transformational Reconstruction (TR) technique outlined in this book represents a departure from conventional metric pattern cutting norms, with regards to the construction of three dimensional fashion creations.
Comment by Els — December 9, 2011 @ 9:16 am
That zipper dress is just stunning! I think you can get similar weight zippers here in the US from suppliers like Zipper Stop and Pacific Trim on the East Coast. I’m sure there are other suppliers in LA who can get them, too. Thanks for the inspiration, Els!
Comment by gorgeous things — December 8, 2011 @ 2:18 pm
Hi Ann, I think you are referring to Beulon invisible zippers which are very light weight. I have such zippers in my stash and also used them in lightweight fabrics. But I have no idea if those zippers can be pressed into such a curved line without clipping the tape too. Need to do some practice to see if it will work.
Comment by Els — December 9, 2011 @ 9:19 am
[…] See the previous post Shingo Sato Designer […]
Pingback by Shingo Sato Designer part two « THE SEWING DIVAS sewing, design, fashion — December 9, 2011 @ 10:38 am
wonderfully inspiring work – I can see how this motivated you. Thanks for sharing!
Comment by Robin Denning — December 9, 2011 @ 6:43 pm
[…] The examples like the pictures above are described in the book and accompanied video “Transformational Reconstruction” which I mentioned in the first post about Shingo Sato […]
Pingback by Shingo Sato Designer part three (Trompe L’oeil) « THE SEWING DIVAS sewing, design, fashion — December 11, 2011 @ 7:31 am