THE SEWING DIVAS sewing, design, fashion

May 9, 2009

Flared hem skirt

I made a new skirt for my mother ( 88 years ) from a wool polyester fabric to match a rtw jacket, and used a design sample draft I found years ago on ebay, I downloaded the picture probably from a pattern-drafting book but I forgot  the book title. If anyone knows from which book this picture is please tell.

 The design is made by changing a straight skirt into a flared one.

skirt design a

I already made this skirt last year  but that one had a center front seam because I had not enough fabric to cut it on fold.

Slash and spread is all what is needed to make this skirt design. I added  6,5  cm between the slashes.

I started with a straight skirt pattern drafted on her measurements and draw lines on the front .

The skirt back pattern is just a straight skirt , only the front has flares towards the side seams.

 Skirt I made last year had a center front seam because I had not enough fabric to cut the center front on the fold.

Front                                                                                                                                    Back

front  back









This time I had enough fabric so no center seam.

slashed pattern

I made the pattern with added seam allowances , 1 cm for the inner corner and separate inset piece and 1.5 cm for the side seams; hem depth is 4 cm. Serging the seam allowances for the fabric, and for the lining I choose to finish the inner corner with a pinking shear with a less wide SA about ½ -3/4 cm.

 The inner corner of the front piece of the skirt fabric and lining are stabilized with a piece of fusible interfacing.

inset wrong side a









Sewing the insert piece, pressed the seams open first and together again so they will lay towards the CF and towards the hem.

side view

The skirt has an invisible zipperat the CB and a contoured front waistband and a straight waistband at the back side due to her posture.CF length 67 cm, Left side seam 71 cm, right side seam 69 cm, CB lenght 74 cm. The waistband is closed using a button and buttonhole.

I sewed the waistband first at the edge and graded the seams , sewed the skirt with a 1 cm seam allowance at the front side waistband and the back side waistband towards the lining with 1 cm sa.

The sa from the skirt and front waistband are pressed towards the waistband, while the sa from the lining and backside waistband are pressed towards the lining skirt.

This will result in a more smooth waistband seam and not a bulky one which has 4 layers of seam allowances inside the waistband.

The waistband was top stitched a hairline away from the skirt seam

contoured waistband a

It is a bit of flurry picture but you get an idea how this skirt falls.

front side a

I inserted a piece of elastic inside the waistband, because my mother likes that.

I used  a 4 cm deep hem and hand stitched the hem about 1 cm from the edge so no imprints,


hem stitch 

 This skirt design is a nice one if you want to add some flare at the front hem but do not want to add more wide at the hip line. The back side is just a straight skirt.


You can add some flare to the side seam starting at a point somewhere below the hip line but the original side seam length should match the new flared side seam.

flared skirt
You can see on the example design sketch that the cut out triangle inset side seam is longer than the space between point 7 and 4 from the skirt  because of the added flares. Sewing the triangle inset makes this skirt design to flare out towards the front.


  1. I wonder if you could achieve a similar look just with some godets (I know, they are a little tough to sew)? This way you would not have the vertical curved seam in the skirt.

    Comment by Maria — May 9, 2009 @ 8:46 am

  2. I love this! I take it that the triangle you removed is sewn in without curving the bottom? I think that this would be fun in the back too.

    Comment by Nancy k — May 9, 2009 @ 9:08 am

  3. Lovely skirt idea! Thank you! I like elastic in a fitted waistband also. Gives a bit of extra room.

    Comment by vernonfashionstudio — May 9, 2009 @ 11:41 am

  4. Oooo – I like it!!!

    Comment by knitsnwovens — May 9, 2009 @ 3:01 pm

  5. How nice to see the pattern piece which made this lovely flared hemline! Nice, Els 🙂

    Comment by Mary Beth — May 9, 2009 @ 4:55 pm

  6. Nice skirt. I like the flare at the hem. How nice that you sew for your mother. I used to sew for mine, also. Loved every minute of it.

    Comment by Gwen — May 9, 2009 @ 8:21 pm

  7. Els, this skirt is so elegant and pretty. I love the way it flares in front and is straight in back. Thanks so much for sharing this!

    Comment by Pam ~Off The Cuff~ — May 9, 2009 @ 8:39 pm

  8. I think a flared skirt is one the most flattering of skirt styles.

    Comment by Trudy Callan — May 9, 2009 @ 10:17 pm

  9. What a beautiful skirt, Els! I think it might also be really pretty with the flare in the back and a straight front. Your mother is very lucky having you to make such lovely clothing for her.

    Comment by Gigi — May 10, 2009 @ 6:30 am

  10. Els .- thanks for showing this process. is a simple design but with very good results. elastic waist, too, is something common among my clients. is comfortable and safe.

    Comment by paco peralta — May 11, 2009 @ 2:58 pm

  11. Hi,

    I added your blog to a new sewing blog directory that sort blogs by freshness. The blogs with new posts are always moved up to the top. Please check it out and recommend it to your sewing blogger friends!

    Thank you!


    Comment by Diana — May 13, 2009 @ 11:41 pm

  12. I like your skirt, thanks for sharing.

    What would happen, if instead of cutting the triangle out, you just redrew the side seam from the changed portion to the hip (point 7 to point 4) and sewed the skirt without the triangle addition? My daughter has asked for a long heavy skirt that flares, but she does not want the extra seams that it would take if designed with the little flare triangle insets at the hem or more gores. This looks like it may have the design possibilities that would fit her request.

    Reni See PS on above post

    Comment by Mama Reni — May 20, 2009 @ 12:50 am

  13. Beautiful skirt design; I’m sure your mother is quite happy with your impeccable work

    Comment by Tany — May 24, 2009 @ 5:35 pm

  14. Great idea from a great daughter (your mother is lucky to have you)!

    Comment by Sewmarm — May 25, 2009 @ 2:19 am

  15. that was a wonderful skirt i like it very much.. if there is any more skirt pattern just e-mail it to me thank you…..

    Comment by pauline — June 9, 2009 @ 7:01 pm

  16. there is another way of getting the flare in just by putting the dart in the side seam,make several line up from the hem 1/2 inch apart or 5/8 inch up to the dart close the dart out then cut on the lines and spread to the amount you desired,,,,then you will get the flared without the triangle ok please try it….

    Comment by pauline — June 9, 2009 @ 7:41 pm

  17. you have done a wonderful job you realy know your stuff,loving the choice of colour.

    Comment by sonwabise goba — March 1, 2010 @ 4:41 am

  18. This is really amazing and wonderful. I m just loving ur blog..

    Comment by Saarah — June 17, 2010 @ 1:43 am

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