I made a new skirt for my mother ( 88 years ) from a wool polyester fabric to match a rtw jacket, and used a design sample draft I found years ago on ebay, I downloaded the picture probably from a pattern-drafting book but I forgot the book title. If anyone knows from which book this picture is please tell.
The design is made by changing a straight skirt into a flared one.
I already made this skirt last year but that one had a center front seam because I had not enough fabric to cut it on fold.
Slash and spread is all what is needed to make this skirt design. I added 6,5 cm between the slashes.
I started with a straight skirt pattern drafted on her measurements and draw lines on the front .
The skirt back pattern is just a straight skirt , only the front has flares towards the side seams.
Skirt I made last year had a center front seam because I had not enough fabric to cut the center front on the fold.
This time I had enough fabric so no center seam.
I made the pattern with added seam allowances , 1 cm for the inner corner and separate inset piece and 1.5 cm for the side seams; hem depth is 4 cm. Serging the seam allowances for the fabric, and for the lining I choose to finish the inner corner with a pinking shear with a less wide SA about ½ -3/4 cm.
The inner corner of the front piece of the skirt fabric and lining are stabilized with a piece of fusible interfacing.
Sewing the insert piece, pressed the seams open first and together again so they will lay towards the CF and towards the hem.
The skirt has an invisible zipperat the CB and a contoured front waistband and a straight waistband at the back side due to her posture.CF length 67 cm, Left side seam 71 cm, right side seam 69 cm, CB lenght 74 cm. The waistband is closed using a button and buttonhole.
I sewed the waistband first at the edge and graded the seams , sewed the skirt with a 1 cm seam allowance at the front side waistband and the back side waistband towards the lining with 1 cm sa.
The sa from the skirt and front waistband are pressed towards the waistband, while the sa from the lining and backside waistband are pressed towards the lining skirt.
This will result in a more smooth waistband seam and not a bulky one which has 4 layers of seam allowances inside the waistband.
The waistband was top stitched a hairline away from the skirt seam
It is a bit of flurry picture but you get an idea how this skirt falls.
I inserted a piece of elastic inside the waistband, because my mother likes that.
I used a 4 cm deep hem and hand stitched the hem about 1 cm from the edge so no imprints,
This skirt design is a nice one if you want to add some flare at the front hem but do not want to add more wide at the hip line. The back side is just a straight skirt.
You can add some flare to the side seam starting at a point somewhere below the hip line but the original side seam length should match the new flared side seam.
You can see on the example design sketch that the cut out triangle inset side seam is longer than the space between point 7 and 4 from the skirt because of the added flares. Sewing the triangle inset makes this skirt design to flare out towards the front.