Distinctive Prints: Part 1

There are times when nothing but cutting single layer will do. Yes, we all hate it but we do what we have to to Make It Work! Sometimes it is necessary when we are short on fabric or need to match a print, stripe or plaid. I believe it is the sign of a quality garment when care and thought has so obviously been put into the layout of the pattern. The little bit of extra work will bring you so much pleasure every time you wear the garment. Plus, it prevents those embarassing giant flowers on the bust apex!

I am currently working on a dress using a bold print from Gorgeous Fabrics. The print reminds me of those scarf panels that were everywhere a few years back: large square motifs surrounded by a border. For the last few days I have been trying to work out the cutting in my head. The center motif is large so I allowed about 1.5 yards of extra fabric to give me plenty to play around with. Now this is where a dressform and camera really come in handy! I started with the largest section – the skirt – which took up an entire motif. Then I cut the rest of the front, pinning each section onto my dressform. I find that taking a picture really gives me the best feel for how pleasing and flattering my pattern arrangement is. Once I have the front worked out, the back is easy as are the sleeves which will each be cut from the center of the motif – the white area.

Because the skirt was a little wider than the square motif I wanted to make sure I matched the border at the hemline front and back. Here I’ve pinned the hem edges together to make sure I have a match. The white triangle you see at the bottom is the white selvage.

Once I pin up the hem you won’t see the white part at all.

In order to make a match at the hemline I had to cut the skirt back with a seam. Because the outer edge beyond the border was different on each side I also had to cut the skirt upside down. In the photos above, the outer edge is black – on the other side it is the green print.

I’m so mad at myself that I’m off a little at the center back. The hem edges miter perfectly so the fabric must have shifted a little. If I have enough fabric left I will probably recut this. If not, I doubt anyone will notice but me. I’m just OCD enough to order another length…

Sorry about the crooked photo, I haven’t even had my first martini yet! :-O

I still haven’t decided how I will finish the neckline. I have some of the coordinating beaujolais rayon/lycra that I could bind the neck with and introduce as piping in other areas or I could use the border cut on the cross grain – I’ll work that out as I go. Stay tuned.