Adding bra cups to a halter top or dress

Yesterday, I began work on the Hot Patterns’ Cha Cha Cha halter dress. Rather than worrying about being able to find a comfortable halter bra (and having to fuss with that with each wearing) I decided to add bra cups instead. Since this is a casual garment, I opted to sew the cups into the lining. On a dressier garment, I think it would be nicer to attach the cups to an inner layer such as stretch illusion and hide the construction with a lining.

First, I want to point out that I am working with a knit – a beautiful rayon/lycra from Fabric Mart. Were I working with a woven fabric, I would elect to attach the cups temporarily – probably using snaps – to make ironing easier.

Step 1: Pin the garment together, substituting the lining sections *wrong side out* for the outer bodice sections. Try on, pinning the cups into position *on the outside*. This way you will be spared the step of transferring markings from the outer bodice sections to the lining sections. I basted the center front together to make this easier – you can just pin that if you prefer.

Step 2: After removing the garment, I used a little help (a lime!) to make pinning a little easier. You want to allow enough ease inside the cup for the bust.

Ready for sewing!

Step 3: Sewing from the fabric side, I felt my way around the edges of the bra cup. A trolley needle was very helpful for easing in the fullness where necessary.

Step 4: The sewn cup from the inside and outside – it really is very easy to accurately sew around the cup even though you are only relying on feel to guide you.

Once both cups have been sewn into the lining, I will remove the center front basting and baste the lining and outer pieces together and proceed as per the pattern instructions. An easy addition that will make a summer dress much more comfortable to wear!

UPDATE 4/21/07: See the completed dress at Behind The Seams