THE SEWING DIVAS sewing, design, fashion

March 24, 2007

Godet skirt in semi sheer fabric

Filed under: Els,sewing,sewing notions,Tutorials — Els @ 10:02 pm

I sewed the previous post godet 6 panel skirt pattern for my mother. The fabric she bought is a semi sheer stretch seersucker. I used some silk organza pieces to reinforce the fabric on some stress points and thought it would be helpful if I share this fabric sewing process.

The lining skirt prevents see-thru.

 

A three thread serged seam finish on all the seams of the panels and godets except the godet hems and waist seam allowance was done prior the actualy sewing . I used Serafil thread 120/2 which is a German brand thread to use on the serger or blind hemming machine , it is very expensive about US $ 16.00 per cone of 5000 meter but well known in Europe for its outstanding quality. 

I used a size 60 sewing machine needle and  alterfil thread which prevents puckering seams because this thread is covered with a special coating.

The next step in sewing was hemming the godets; I pressed the 2 cm (⅜ inch) hem allowance and stitched with a long stitch and a loose tension close to the edge about 3 mm ( ⅛ inch) a helping stitch guideline only..

Cutting off the excess hem allowance with an appliqué scissor. And fold the hem 3 mm (  ⅛ inch) in once more and used a silk thread to stitch the final stitch line.

 

I removed the first stitching line because it was a only a help line. to sew the tiny baby hem.

 

 

Prior of sewing  the panel seams till the beginning of the godet inset mark, I pinned a small piece of silk organza at the end of the stitching line overlapping the beginning of the godet inset line. This to prevent a stress point. I marked this piece on the picture with a yellow line. Because I wanted the sheer stripes to match on the panels I pinned the seams using the sheer stripes as a guideline .

 

   

The small organza piece is hardly visable on the skirt fabric (so I put pins to show you the location).

Another piece of silk organza also cut on the grain, but with finished serged edges is used to reinforce the zipper opening for the invisible zipper. This invisible zipper has a lightweight tape ( beulon) 

 

Matching seams on the panels parts.

Panel hem 4 cm ( 1 ⅝ inch) and godet hem 5 mm ( ¼  inch).

Godet inset in skirt, to keep the top of the godet seam allowances attached to the panel seams I fused a tiny piece of fusible sheer hem tape on the horizontal seam allowance.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The panel hem is 4 cm wide and stitched by hand using a size 12 needle, the tiny size needle helps to do an invisible hem stitch, just passing one or two threads from the  right side fabric.I sewed the hem by folding the allowance for 5 mm (¼1inch) backwards so the stitches are covered by the hem allowance.

 

 

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Detail view of the skirt.

 

 

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14 Comments

  1. I enjoyed reading this article very much, thank you for sharing your perfect execution techniques, along with the valuable sewing tips on notions!

    Comment by Tany — March 25, 2007 @ 5:06 am

  2. Els, as always, your workmanship is excellent. I really enjoy reading your tutorials. Thanks!

    Comment by Karina — March 25, 2007 @ 6:57 am

  3. Thank you for sharing these tips and techniques. Your work is beautiful and the tutorials are very informative and helpful. Thanks!

    Comment by Sharon — March 25, 2007 @ 8:45 am

  4. Thanks so much for your incredible tutorial!!! I am loving it!!!!

    Comment by Annette — March 25, 2007 @ 8:03 pm

  5. Beautiful inside and outside Els! I really like the subtle stripe in the fabric.

    Comment by Phyllis — March 25, 2007 @ 10:12 pm

  6. Gorgeous Els! I hope someday I’ll be able to make such impeccable garments.

    Comment by Maja — March 26, 2007 @ 3:43 pm

  7. What a beautiful skirt, Els! Your workmanship is impeccable, as always. I know your mother will be thrilled!

    Comment by Gigi — March 27, 2007 @ 5:56 pm

  8. What a great looking skirt. Thanks for the detailed information, truly helpful.

    Comment by Linda L — March 28, 2007 @ 5:54 am

  9. I love this tutorial, especially since a skirt with godets is my new future. I do have a question for you though. It may be in that I overlooked the reasoning for this, but why did you put two different size hems in? Thank you.

    Comment by Amy — May 7, 2007 @ 8:46 am

  10. Oops, near future.

    Comment by Amy — May 7, 2007 @ 8:46 am

  11. Els, where do you get alteril and serafil from?

    Thanks in advance.

    Kaylene

    Comment by Kaylene — June 13, 2007 @ 12:13 am

  12. Kaylene, I buy the Serafil and Alterfil thread from my notions supplier here in The Netherlands.

    http://www.beautyvof.com/

    Comment by Els — June 13, 2007 @ 5:06 pm

  13. [...] Schnittmuster-Änderung gerader Rock in Rock mit Godets -(Anleitung Rock mit Godets nähen) [...]

    Pingback by Schnittänderungen - Linkliste | Kostenlose-Schnittmuster.de — October 17, 2008 @ 5:07 am

  14. What a wonderful tutorial. You must love to teach to have the patience to put this together in such great detail.I can’t wait to make a godet skirt. I’m adding this to my list of favorite blogs.
    Thank you so much! Diana

    Comment by Diana Deap — October 23, 2008 @ 11:31 am


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