Godet skirt in semi sheer fabric

I sewed the previous post godet 6 panel skirt pattern for my mother. The fabric she bought is a semi sheer stretch seersucker. I used some silk organza pieces to reinforce the fabric on some stress points and thought it would be helpful if I share this fabric sewing process.

The lining skirt prevents see-thru.

 

A three thread serged seam finish on all the seams of the panels and godets except the godet hems and waist seam allowance was done prior the actualy sewing . I used Serafil thread 120/2 which is a German brand thread to use on the serger or blind hemming machine , it is very expensive about US $ 16.00 per cone of 5000 meter but well known in Europe for its outstanding quality. 

I used a size 60 sewing machine needle and  alterfil thread which prevents puckering seams because this thread is covered with a special coating.

The next step in sewing was hemming the godets; I pressed the 2 cm (⅜ inch) hem allowance and stitched with a long stitch and a loose tension close to the edge about 3 mm ( ⅛ inch) a helping stitch guideline only..

Cutting off the excess hem allowance with an appliqué scissor. And fold the hem 3 mm (  ⅛ inch) in once more and used a silk thread to stitch the final stitch line.

 

I removed the first stitching line because it was a only a help line. to sew the tiny baby hem.

 

 

Prior of sewing  the panel seams till the beginning of the godet inset mark, I pinned a small piece of silk organza at the end of the stitching line overlapping the beginning of the godet inset line. This to prevent a stress point. I marked this piece on the picture with a yellow line. Because I wanted the sheer stripes to match on the panels I pinned the seams using the sheer stripes as a guideline .

 

   

The small organza piece is hardly visable on the skirt fabric (so I put pins to show you the location).

Another piece of silk organza also cut on the grain, but with finished serged edges is used to reinforce the zipper opening for the invisible zipper. This invisible zipper has a lightweight tape ( beulon) 

 

Matching seams on the panels parts.

Panel hem 4 cm ( 1 ⅝ inch) and godet hem 5 mm ( ¼  inch).

Godet inset in skirt, to keep the top of the godet seam allowances attached to the panel seams I fused a tiny piece of fusible sheer hem tape on the horizontal seam allowance.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The panel hem is 4 cm wide and stitched by hand using a size 12 needle, the tiny size needle helps to do an invisible hem stitch, just passing one or two threads from the  right side fabric.I sewed the hem by folding the allowance for 5 mm (¼1inch) backwards so the stitches are covered by the hem allowance.

 

 

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Detail view of the skirt.