Construction of an inverted kick pleat without topstitching.

by Diva Els

There are several ways to make an inverted kick pleat. The most common finish is to topstitch the folded pleat on both sides of the stitching line from the right side. There is nothing wrong with that way but as a custom clothier I was trained to finish the pleat without topstitching.

Diva Phyllis suggested that I link to her version of Hot Pattern’s Classix Nouveau Trouser-Skirt to demonstrate the topstitched method. Phyllis showed us this skirt in her beautiful Lace Secrets entry in May 2006. And here’s her review of the pattern at PatternReview.com

Thanks, Phyllis!

Step 1

Above is how I made an inverted pleat with a depth of 8 cm and a length of 26 cm.
The hem is already finished. For those using the imperial system of measurement you can convert my measurements here

The fold line has been pressed and I have marked the pleat line at 8 cm from the fold line with chalk and applied a narrow piece of fusible interfacing to reinforce the pleat and stitching line.

Step 2

I stitched the center back (or where ever you are adding the pleat) seam line ending 26 cm from the hem. (You can make the pleat as deep as you wish but 8 cm is the depth I used for
this example) I then changed the stitch length and tension to a basting stitch and stitched straight down to the hem The vertical chalk mark is where the pleat starts. Next I draw a chalk line at 4 cm from the fold line so I know exactly my pressing line.

Step 3

Here is the inverted pleat, opened and pressed.

Step 4

I marked the beginning of the inverted pleat and draw a diagonal line on both sides of the pleat depth , this will be my guide line for stitching the pleat in place. The stitching is done in two steps on each of the pleat halves.

Step 5

You can see how the stitching is done to the center of the pleat only .

Step 6

And from the other side of the pleat.

Step 7

Here you can see the stitching line that holds the pleat in place.

Step 8

The finished inverted kick pleat on the ironing board.

Done!

Inverted pleat done without topstitching as it looks from “the public side”.