McCall’s 5269, aka “The Laura Bennett Dress” is done! The dress got that name because I saw the fabric and immediately thought of the Project Runway Season 3 runner up. I can only hope she would like it!
A few notes on the pattern itself, and the construction.
The pattern is a relatively straightforward lined, princess seamed dress. I made some changes to it that look significant, but are not very difficult. I changed the sleeves from very short and puffed to long and straight. To do that, I morphed the armscye to match the one from the Vogue 8280 Roland Mouret knock off, and I used the long sleeve from that pattern.
I used a non-standard fabric for the dress: a sequined, embroidered nylon net that I bought from Kashi at Metro Textiles in New York back in October. Because of the sheerness, I decided to underline the fabric with a stretch silk charmeuse, also from Kashi. You can read about the design decisions I made about construction options in this post from December. I underlined the dress completely, and lined the bodice with the stretch charmeuse as well. I finished the seams on the unlined portion of the dress by whipstitching the raw edges to the underlining fabric using a single strand of silk thread:
This gives a smooth finish inside, encasing the net as well as the charmeuse. An added benefit is that it adds no bulk to the seam.
The rest of the construction details can be found here, here, here, and here
To finish the dress off, I used a narrow overlock stitch on the charmeuse’s hem. I then did a 5/8″ narrow hem on the net underneath the fringe. This took a lot of time, and I hand basted and pressed the hem before sewing. I debated whether to cut the hem of the net at the hem of the charmeuse, but there are sequins embroidered under the fringe, and like the idea of showing a little twinkle when I walk.It took a lot of patience to keep the fringe out of the way of the hem. But I got zen about the whole experience and kept saying, “You’ll look fabulous, you’ll look fabulous” and eventually the hem was done.
The dress will have its debut at a dinner in New York later this month, after which I’ll hopefully post a picture of me in the dress. Until then, here’s a peek:
Happy sewing!