THE SEWING DIVAS sewing, design, fashion

September 3, 2007

Marfy #9865 – Finished

Filed under: Marfy,Pattern Reviews — phyllisc @ 2:20 pm

I’m happy with the way this shirt jacket turned out - even though Marfy is pretty much an Outward Bound sewing experience, the patterns are expertly cut and they fit together beautifully.   When I do tailored shirts like this, I turn into the Template Queen.  Years ago I learned the hard way that the only way I can really replicate the crisp look of RTW shirt details is to use templates.   I just can’t rely soley on my eyes and hands for neat and tidy details. 

Details 

There are a few design details on this shirt that really stand out:  the topstitched bellows pockets with flaps, and the epaulettes.  The beauty of a template is that each detail will look exactly the same - sure you do need to make them, but a piece of thin cardboard or a manila folder works fine and cutting them out takes just a few minutes of extra time.   Here are the templates I made for this project:

 The cardboard for these came from the back of  a legal pad  The big payoff with a template is nice crisp pressed edge for details such as patch pockets.   The only other tools you need are a piece of silk organza to use as a press cloth and some spray adhesive to hold the template to the wrong side of the fabric (spray the template, not the fabric.)  The template/fabric sandwich is placed right side down on a big piece of silk organza.  Grab the silk organaza and use it to pull the fabric over the edge of the template as you press down the edge with a hot iron and lots of steam.  Let the pressed piece cool completely and remove the template.

An Interesting Challenge

I must admit to being perplexed when I first saw the collar pieces.  The fact that there were two of them made sense – there is an upper and lower collar, and they are different sizes as you can see – but the stand incorporated into the collar really had me stratching my head.  The fashion illustration really looks like there is a separate collar stand, and in the end I decided that must be the case and seprated the two pieces (the photos below show them before they were cut apart.)

Another thing I do with a collar stand is to mark the stitching line all along the curve of the stand at center front – it’s just impossible to rely solely on my seam guide and still get a perfectly curved edge.  If I mark the seam line there’s no guesswork.

Sizing

This is a 46 and when I orderd the pattern I used a Burda WOF size table to help me decide, and I erred on the small side.  Still, after I did a muslin it was clear I had to narrow the shoulders a full 1/2 inch on each side – I do have narrow shoulders but over all the shoulder and back width seems large to me: 16 1/2 inches across the shoulders.  I also shortend the waist a solid 2 inches and the sleeves 3/4 of an inch. The back was let out 2 inches below the hips and no adjustments had to be made for the front hip area.  The patch pockets were moved down a bit so they don’t hit me right at the waist.  The fabric is a Rayon Poly Stretch twill from Gorgeous Fabrics

So – on to another Marfy! My Fall/Winter 2007-08 catalog just arrived, and inspiration abounds.

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18 Comments

  1. Wow, that is simply STUNNING, Phyllis. I just love the topstitching!

    Comment by Gorgeous Things — September 3, 2007 @ 2:45 pm

  2. Phyllis, this turned out beautifully. Your topstitching looks perfect! Thanks for the tip on templates. This is a great shirt and I’m sure you’ll get lots of compliments on it.

    Comment by Nancy W — September 3, 2007 @ 3:16 pm

  3. I love the topstitching! You’re so right – templates make getting perfect much easier.

    I got a chuckle out of your description of Marfy patterns: “Outward Bound sewing experience”. No joke!

    Comment by Summerset — September 3, 2007 @ 6:50 pm

  4. This looks like it will be a real wardrobe Trooper! And those buttons are so intriguing. You truly are a perfect Detail Diva ’cause I think they look pretty good.

    Comment by Mary Beth — September 3, 2007 @ 7:05 pm

  5. Hi! You did a great job. It looks very professional. I want to thank you for mentioning the Marfy patterns. I looked them up on the net and and goint to order a couple of patterns. i have to figure out what size to order. I like the way their patterns are cut and the fact that they fall below the belly on their tops.

    Comment by Ellie Angelo — September 3, 2007 @ 11:18 pm

  6. Great looking garment!!! Very helpful information regarding templates. The extra time obviously pays off.

    Comment by Linda L — September 4, 2007 @ 4:18 am

  7. Thanks for getting yours done before I even unfolded mine! The drawing looks more fitted than reality, but I think I like it that way. I am going to have to get going on mine, now!

    Comment by lorna — September 4, 2007 @ 7:27 am

  8. It looks so great, so professionally done! Thank you for that tip on using templates, it will surely come in handy.

    Comment by LauraLo — September 4, 2007 @ 9:11 am

  9. Beautiful, Phyllis!

    Comment by Gigi — September 4, 2007 @ 11:02 am

  10. I’ve never cut a template before; what cutting tool do you suggest be used to cut from a piece of legal pad cardboard (great idea, btw)? Exacto knife? Box cutter? Thanks so much; your work is exquisite.

    Comment by Marilyn — September 4, 2007 @ 11:47 am

  11. It turned out perfect! I love the topstitching!

    Comment by Tany — September 4, 2007 @ 12:52 pm

  12. Very pretty!

    Comment by tnkitty — September 4, 2007 @ 2:31 pm

  13. Marilyn, I just use a rotary cutter, a ruker and french curve to get a clean edge. It’s a good way to use those knicked baldes that you don’t want to use for cutting fabric!

    Comment by phyllisc — September 4, 2007 @ 6:13 pm

  14. I am in awe. It’s lovely and look *perfect*.

    Comment by cidell — September 5, 2007 @ 9:38 pm

  15. Nice crisp shirt, great idea to use templates. A pattern for a collar with cut on stand is very common, but I can understand why you were in doubt seeing the pattern sketch picture. The topstitching around the band helps to gives it a bit more body.

    Comment by Els — September 6, 2007 @ 7:34 am

  16. Beautiful!!! I use a template the same way to get crisp corners!

    With friendship,
    Lisa

    Comment by thedomesticdiva — September 7, 2007 @ 6:57 am

  17. Very inspirational, Phyllis! Your topstitching is beautiful. Thanks for mentioning the templates. I’m with you on being tired of the floaty, flimsy tops.

    Comment by Robyn — September 8, 2007 @ 9:23 am

  18. Hi Phyllis. I was wondering, I realize Marfy patterns do not include the seam allowances. when you encounter a patter piece such as the collar, did you extend the center fold line as well? In other words, I place the Marfy pattern piece on pattern paper and trace 5/8″ outside of the Marfy pattern borders. I just wasn’t sure if I need to do the same on the center fold line.

    Thank you.

    Comment by Marisa — January 12, 2008 @ 12:54 am


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