THE SEWING DIVAS sewing, design, fashion

February 21, 2010

Faux Ribs for Faux Fur

Filed under: Fur sewing,Georgene,sewing — georgene @ 6:40 pm

Thanks to Els invaluable tutorial on making your own rib! Another costume character, another design problem, for the upcoming Seussical production. The director chose this purple faux fur with lurex. Horrors! I looked everywhere for a chunky rib that would match to make this bolero style work. I finally found a very thin crinkled raggy piece of jersey that was the right color, but not even close to the texture I wanted.

It’s sort of the opposite of Mary Beth’s bolero that has faux ribs in the fake fur for the cuffs.

Calculating how many ribs in Els’ precise equation was not really possible, so I decided to keep tucking until I had a block big enough to cut my pattern pieces out.

2 days later I was still making double needle pintucks. There was a lot of uneveness and twisting, the thread kept breaking, it was sort of a nightmare all by itself, before I even got up to my elbows in the flying faux fur.

Since this was for a costume, I didn’t worry about the crazy, wonky  nature of the pintucks. I kinda like the texture that it imparts to the rib.

My only concern was that this was taking far too long to do, and I had  to move things along a bit more quickly.

The solution was to piece together lengths to make up the needed parts  – easy enough to do if you just lay one tuck on top and topstitch over it.  It blended in with the tucks on the piece underneath. Thankfully I was  able to cobble together enough lengths to make the trim for both the  bolero collar and cuffs, as well as the top waistband of the skirt.

The folded over bands of faux rib look great.

I followed some instructions I found for fake fur sewing to cut and join the  seams, then stretched my rib bands to the body. All of the seams are sewn  with zigzag at the edge.

Dress rehearsals start soon – can’t wait to see how all of this turns out!

March 24, 2009

Sewing with fur

Filed under: Els,Embellishment,Fur sewing,Leather sewing,sewing,Tutorials — Els @ 10:19 pm

 My last project restyling an old mink fur coat  for a client. The coat was inherited from her mother and she wanted to wear that coat but it should be made in her size and with a more modern look. The coat was too large and the design old fashion.The mink fur and leather side were still in an good condition to make it work. 

 
The tools I use for working with fur and pigskin suede,  my furrier knife to cut the fur, a leather knife to cut the leather, a hammer to pound the leather seams, textile adhesive tape to stabilize the cutting lines of the fur, special leather interfacing LE420, glue for leather, plus handsewing glove needles size 9 .
I restyled the coat to a 3/4 length and added pigskin suede in a matching color to give it a
 more modern look.
 

furrier knife to cut the fur from the leather side:

 

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