THE SEWING DIVAS sewing, design, fashion

May 20, 2009

Silk jacket

Last year I ordered some fabrics included a few yards of a beautiful silk tussah fabric from Melody at, which I used to make a long jacket.

I already posted some pictures of my sleeve in the blogpost  sleeve heads.

The jacket design and pattern are drafted by me.

The collar is 2 3/8 inch wide (6 cm) and needed some more structure besides the sturdy woven fusible interfacing to keep its shape, so I used some rigilene boning threads.

wide collar

But I removed the cover first and used 2 threads, cut at the needed lenth for the outer edge of the colllar,  rigilene boning threads a

 2 boning threads inside sa collar



which I sewed by machine inside the seam allowances.


For the short edges  I sewed the 2 threads by hand inside the seam allowances, and for the inside neck line I hand sewed them just above the open pressed seam.

The cut edges are sharp so to prevent poking I covered the edges with a small piece of bandage/sport tape.

neckline boning

The jacket has 2 inseam pockets made of Venezia lining with a cut on self fabric extension, the cut one extensions are different in width for the under and upper pocket to reduce bulk.

 The pictures still show the basting thread to match the pocket opening seam line.  

Inseam under pocket                                                                                                                                                                   

inseam under pocket

  inseam upper pocket                 right side                         pocketinseam pocket upper pocket                                                                                                

The bound buttonholes are 1/8 inch wide( 3 mm)  and the facing buttonholes are made using silk orange organza and a technique from Roberta Carr’s book  “Couture the art of fine sewing”

organza facing bbbb facing and jacket






Ready to sew together using tiny stitches around the opening

bb ready to attach

bound buttonhole a

The buttons are 1 3/4 inch in diameter( 3 cm)









I added a tiny yellow bias cut piping  a bit less than 1/8 inch ( 2mm) around the outer edge of the facing/lining 

satin edge piping at lining                                                                piping 2mmlabel                                                                                                                                                                                           

For dry cleaning purposes I added a care label  sewn at the side seam, the lining is “Venezia” a breathable anti-static lining .                                                                                                                  

care label

front view aanother view front a back a                                                                           


© Els


  1. Just beautiful !

    Comment by Pam ~ Off The Cuff ~ — May 20, 2009 @ 8:41 pm

  2. Stunning! Thank you for great tips on the collar.

    Comment by Pamela — May 20, 2009 @ 10:10 pm

  3. It’s gorgeous, Els. I love how you balanced the flare between the front and back. What a slick trick to bone that collar, too. How did you find preprinted care labels for the Venezia?

    MaryBeth, In The Netherlands if we made custom garments for a client we are obliged to sew in care labels. I can order them in any content via the Dutch Tailors organization, 10 labels per content is the minimum to order.

    In garments I made for myself which can be washed at home I do not add a care label.

    Comment by Mary Beth — May 20, 2009 @ 10:11 pm

  4. Отличная статья, спасибо!

    translation from Russian : Excellent article, thank you!

    Comment by Danilla — May 21, 2009 @ 1:42 am

  5. Oh wow! It’s a wonderful jacket. I like how the collar and neckline frame the face and neck – very elegant shape.

    Comment by Summerset — May 21, 2009 @ 4:01 am

  6. Oooh… that’s really chic!

    Comment by KayB — May 21, 2009 @ 4:35 am

  7. Breathtaking – I love everything about this garment! The tip about putting boning threads in the collar is excellent – thank you, thank you!

    Comment by Shannon — May 21, 2009 @ 5:30 am

  8. Gorgeous coat! Excellent tip using the boning. Love that coat!

    Comment by Gwen — May 21, 2009 @ 7:25 am

  9. It’s a really beautiful jacket. I love the tip on keeping the collar edge upright. I would never in a million years thought of this!

    Comment by Nancy k — May 21, 2009 @ 7:49 am

  10. I love that boning tip, especially since I am a fan of collars like this one. Exquisite job.

    Comment by Lindsay T — May 21, 2009 @ 7:53 am

  11. GREAT idea! This is just my style.

    Comment by Sewmarm — May 21, 2009 @ 11:01 am

  12. Beautiful Jacket! And the boning tips are much appreciated. Thanks!

    Linda T

    Comment by vernonfashionstudio — May 21, 2009 @ 1:27 pm

  13. Отличная статья.Респект автору.

    Translation: Excellent article. Respect the author

    Comment by Buterder — May 21, 2009 @ 4:27 pm

  14. This is gorgeous and I love your idea of the rigilene boning in the collar and love the bandage sport tape as the stop (to prevent that pesky poking feeling!) Totally creative as I have a collar I used the whole rigilene on when just the boning thread thingies probably would have been enough. Thanks for the creative solution.

    Comment by ClaireOKC — May 22, 2009 @ 4:06 am

  15. Respect

    Comment by Vibeke — May 22, 2009 @ 9:11 am

  16. The rigilene boning use in the collar is fantastic. Lovely finishing details. Perfection as always, Els.

    Comment by cindyann — May 22, 2009 @ 12:54 pm

  17. Beautifully done.

    Comment by Trudy Callan — May 22, 2009 @ 1:06 pm

  18. Very nice! I like to see that other people also have alternative uses for products like rigilene- we often zig over it using a domestic machine with a foot that has a hole to feed the strand through.

    Comment by Terri Dans — May 22, 2009 @ 4:58 pm

  19. “Beautiful” jacket!

    Comment by Ann's Fashion Studio — May 22, 2009 @ 6:22 pm

  20. You know, I wondered how you got the collar to stand away. I thought it was interfacing. The boning is absolutely brill! Thanks for posting this, I can see that this will totally come in handy.

    Comment by Melody — May 23, 2009 @ 10:25 am

  21. WOW!!! Beautiful work! I want to grow up and sew like you 🙂
    really stunning!

    Comment by Angelia — May 23, 2009 @ 11:56 am

  22. Отличная статья, спасибо!

    Translation: Excellent article, thank you!

    Comment by Cederash — May 24, 2009 @ 1:26 am

  23. Stunning jacket and such an interesting collar design! As usual your articles are packed with useful information!

    Comment by Tany — May 24, 2009 @ 5:42 pm

  24. Очень хороший пост! Спасибо за проделанную работу!

    Translation: Very good post! Thank you for the work

    Comment by Killogramm — May 27, 2009 @ 3:16 pm

  25. The attention to detail it just wonderful. And the tip about the rigilene is just brilliant.

    Comment by lorrwill — May 27, 2009 @ 9:53 pm

  26. Oh ha! When I read you had used rigiline, it reminded me of Rien Becker’s use of it for a hemline on one of the gowns we saw in Enschede! I love how you used only one of the plastic “bones”. I used to use wiring to make collars stand up, but I like your idea much much better!

    Comment by Annika — May 28, 2009 @ 12:44 am

  27. I meant two of the rigiline bones! Sorry! It’s past my bedtime!

    Comment by Annika — May 28, 2009 @ 12:45 am

  28. Els, beautiful jacket. remember the previous post on the heads of sleeves. Thanks for showing the technique for assembly of the neck is great.

    Comment by paco peralta — May 29, 2009 @ 11:42 am

  29. I love the way this jacket looks, just stoning. The boning technique is just great.. it is very helpful.

    Comment by Cruz Barrientos — May 31, 2009 @ 7:35 am

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