Last year I ordered some fabrics included a few yards of a beautiful silk tussah fabric from Melody at http://www.fashionistafabrics.com/, which I used to make a long jacket.
I already posted some pictures of my sleeve in the blogpost sleeve heads.
The jacket design and pattern are drafted by me.
The collar is 2 3/8 inch wide (6 cm) and needed some more structure besides the sturdy woven fusible interfacing to keep its shape, so I used some rigilene boning threads.
But I removed the cover first and used 2 threads, cut at the needed lenth for the outer edge of the colllar,
which I sewed by machine inside the seam allowances.
For the short edges I sewed the 2 threads by hand inside the seam allowances, and for the inside neck line I hand sewed them just above the open pressed seam.
The cut edges are sharp so to prevent poking I covered the edges with a small piece of bandage/sport tape.
The jacket has 2 inseam pockets made of Venezia lining with a cut on self fabric extension, the cut one extensions are different in width for the under and upper pocket to reduce bulk.
The pictures still show the basting thread to match the pocket opening seam line.
Inseam under pocket
inseam upper pocket right side
The bound buttonholes are 1/8 inch wide( 3 mm) and the facing buttonholes are made using silk orange organza and a technique from Roberta Carr’s book “Couture the art of fine sewing”
Ready to sew together using tiny stitches around the opening
The buttons are 1 3/4 inch in diameter( 3 cm)
I added a tiny yellow bias cut piping a bit less than 1/8 inch ( 2mm) around the outer edge of the facing/lining
For dry cleaning purposes I added a care label sewn at the side seam, the lining is “Venezia” a breathable anti-static lining .