THE SEWING DIVAS sewing, design, fashion

October 12, 2008

Vogue 1073: Chado Ralph Rucci

Filed under: couture sewing,Couture Techniques,Designer,Fabric,sewing — phyllisc @ 2:06 pm

Vogue has just released another Ralph Rucci pattern, and after a summer sewing hiatus I’m in the mood to tackle a challenge.  Rucci is kind of the Frank Lloyd Wright of fashion – his clothes are pretty much meant to be worn as deisgned and styled, without too much deviation from the original. It seems the consensus on this pattern is not quite as universally favorable as the dress he did last summer, but I really like this style and I’ll wear it.  It has a Emma Peel 60’s-ish quality to it that I really like. 

Vogue 1073 - Chado Ralph Rucci

Vogue 1073 - Chado Ralph Rucci


Extra Wide Wool Jersey! Olive Gray - wjs2131

Extra Wide Wool Jersey! Olive Gray - wjs2131

Stretch Silk Charmeuse! - Guava ssc1981

Stretch Silk Charmeuse! - Guava ssc1981

So here’s what this one will be: two Gorgeous Fabrics selections; an extra wide olive grey wool jersey and a bright guava stretch silk charmeuse for a bold lining.  Vogue had a two-day on-line sale this week and pattern was marked down 75%, hopefully everything will arrive soon.   It will be interesting to see how the pin tucks are done on this dress;  I assume a wide double needle and a walking foot would be used, but I’ll just have to see what the instructions say.  I think I’ll make oak tag stencils for the marking the pin tucks with chalk or a sewing marker.  Another thing to think about is whether a stabilizer might be needed under the pin tucks.  And then there is the lining – are those pieces pin tucked as well?  So many questions!



  1. I was hoping someone would tackle this fabulous pattern. Wish you could be joining us in NYC this week, Phyllis!

    Comment by LindsayT — October 12, 2008 @ 2:15 pm

  2. I love this dress! I bought the pattern last week. I’m still in search of fabric and lining for it. I was surprised by the responses to it as well. The first time I laid eyes on it, all I could say was, “WOW”! I’m such a sucker for details and this one has plenty!

    Comment by erica b. — October 12, 2008 @ 3:08 pm

  3. I will be watching your progress on this dress. I think this is a little bit tooo much dress for me so it will be interesting to see your interpretation!

    Comment by Carolyn — October 12, 2008 @ 6:46 pm

  4. Shannon Gifford just got this pattern and wrote about it on SG. She said that one of the pintucks in the bodice is actually a dart – makes sense. But would also play havoc with anyone needing to make an FBA.
    She also commented that the pintucks are not accomplished by twin needle stitching, but rather by folding and stitching close to the fold.
    I look forward to seeing your progress on this one.
    Love your fabric choices. A stable knit sounds like a wonderful choice.

    Comment by Marji — October 12, 2008 @ 9:07 pm

  5. I am not loving this dress but it is so sculptural, I look forward to your reports on the making of this dress.

    Are you going to make the pants and gloves also?

    Comment by Linda T — October 13, 2008 @ 10:06 am

  6. That’s a pretty dress, but I really want the boots!

    Comment by mamafitz — October 13, 2008 @ 10:09 am

  7. Oh, this is will be very interesting to watch! It is such a great dress and I can totally see it with the boots.

    Comment by Summerset — October 13, 2008 @ 12:01 pm

  8. you are very brave! But it is gorgeous. I can’t wait to see the result…

    Comment by vero — October 13, 2008 @ 12:08 pm

  9. This pattern is on it’s way to me too. I’m sure you’ll do a wonderful job on this one and I can’t wait to see your version!

    Comment by Tany — October 13, 2008 @ 6:04 pm

  10. How are you going to mark the pin tucks? Thread tracing?

    Comment by Jerris — October 15, 2008 @ 7:50 am

  11. Looks complicated. And lovely!

    Comment by Miss Janey — October 15, 2008 @ 1:06 pm

  12. In the interest of experimentation, I vote for using the double needle anyway to stitch the tucking track lines–the ends of the tucks will lay more flatly than the tucks do. In fact the whole garment will hang better in the end, I think.

    Another experiment–try tucks on the back side of the fabric, so that what shows are just the curving seamlines ( !!! )

    Comment by Jen O — October 15, 2008 @ 7:28 pm

  13. […] about this because we have had our girls for only four months and I know way more about sewing than I do about chickens.  Miz P, on the other hand, lives on a working farm with about 100 […]

    Pingback by All Grown Up « Green Universe: a Gardening Blog — October 15, 2008 @ 8:16 pm

  14. I would love to see this as a coat, actually. Hmm. ~planning placket and collar in my head~

    Comment by Liz Cadorette — October 16, 2008 @ 3:12 pm

  15. I will be watching this one closely. I am not sure about this dress. I think I will like it better in the darker colors you have chosen. The idea of doing the pintucks on the inside is pretty intriguing.

    Using a stabilizer with pin tucks can sometimes prevent the tuck from “standing up”. I also think the double needle technique will be easier and more accurate than tucks made on the fold. This certainly looks challenging and great fun.

    Comment by Bunny — October 17, 2008 @ 7:55 pm

  16. I must have this! Not as a dress, but as a coat!!

    Comment by Kay — October 24, 2008 @ 10:56 am

  17. Would have been nice if there had been more than a one sentence General Instructions for pin tucks- to make pin tucks, on outside, crease along tuck lines.. stitch close to creased edge. HOW FAR from the edge? what happens at either end? stitch off fabric? I have a piece of ‘faux’ wool jersey that I will use for this. Deep purple, so if I mess up, the tucks won’t be so noticeable. Good idea of modifying it to a coat, too!!

    Comment by Phillippa Lack — October 25, 2008 @ 6:07 pm

  18. […] Vogue 1073 – Chado Ralph Rucci pintuck samples January 4, 2009 Filed under: Couture Techniques, Designer, Phyllis, couture sewing, sewing, sewing couture — phyllisc @ 7:47 pm Today I spent the afternoon with Ann at the Gorgeous Fabrics Studio; we had wonderful time together.   Ann worked on a muslin for Burda 3477  (a pattern with a really great draft BTW that is obvious even in a flat pattern stage) that I helped her fit, and she helped me figure out how to make the pintucks for my Ralph Rucci dress. […]

    Pingback by Vogue 1073 - Chado Ralph Rucci pintuck samples « The Sewing Divas — January 4, 2009 @ 8:09 pm

  19. […] purchases. I am trying to find material for this Ralph Rucci Vogue Pattern 1073. Here’s a better view. I’ve settled on a stretch sateen fabric, but have no clue on what color I want. Finding […]

    Pingback by KatyRenee · Spring Break — April 14, 2009 @ 12:20 pm

  20. […] about this because we have had our girls for only four months and I know way more about sewing than I do about chickens.  Miz P, on the other hand, lives on a working farm with about 100 […]

    Pingback by All Grown Up | mediaOrganic — August 14, 2010 @ 2:57 pm

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