THE SEWING DIVAS sewing, design, fashion

July 2, 2008

Do U Speak Marfy?

Filed under: Els,Fabric,Georgene,Marfy,Patterns,sewing — georgene @ 6:04 pm
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Diva Emerita Mary Beth over at The Stitchery had this question for us when she got her new Marfy catalog:

What is “smeared fabric”????

Spring-Summer 2008 Collection – Mod. 1752
1752Mod. 1752
Mt. 2,80 alt. 1,40. Available in sizes 42, 44, 46, 48.
This short, somewhat form-fitting trench coat closes on the diagonal with double crossover thatbecomes single-breasted. It has a yoke at the shoulders, large strips at the cuffs and pockets inset into cuts. Suggested fabric: gabardine, smeared fabric, leather.

Georgene: Coated? Bad translation?

Els: Hi ladies, I looked at the french page at Marfy, and then my textile translation book:

Mod. 1752
Mt. 2,80 alt. 1,40. Disponible en taille 42, 44, 46, 48.
Court trench semi-moulé avec fermeture double endiagonale qui devient simple, empiècement sir les épaules, larges brides aux poignets et poches intérieures insérées dans les coupes. Réalisable en gabardine, tissu ciré, cuir.

Tissu ciré is waxed fabric like the Barbour coats from the UK but also use laminated fabric which is the translation from the Marfy French text

Georgene: Waxed, yeah. Or coated which would be ‘enduit’ in French. But waterproofed or water resistant., which is a good thing for a trench coat

There is a special article at Style.com on the Festival at Glastonbury with lots of waxed Barbour coats in the photos. Very hot item! funny you picked up on that.

Els: Read more information about the Barbour coat

Els: Water repellent or waterproof fabric for outerwear like this Marfy raincoat can be found at online stores like Seattlefabrics.

Els: I read all the descriptions and found some weird translations, like:

Mod. 1721
Occ. mt. 3,00 alt. 1,40. Available in sizes 42, 46, 48, 50, 54.
This form-fitting dress is made of four panels which are cut on bias at the bottom. It has a V-shaped empire cut with hooded collar and drawstring gathers at the shoulders. Suggested fabric: jersey, silk jacquard, or satin.
“cowl neck”

Mod. 1625
Occ. mt. 1,40 alt. 1,40. Available in sizes 42, 44, 46, 48.
This single-breasted form-fitting jacket has inserted belt, patch pockets set on the basque and ¾ sleeves. Suggested fabric: jacquard, piquet or microfiber with satin or patent leather trim.
Basque should be “peplum”

Mod. 1603
Mt. 1,60 alt. 1,40. Available in sizes 42, 44, 46, 50, 54.
This single-breasted, somewhat form-fitting jacket has an original double neckline with gathers, 3/4 sleeves and opens with a single lapel. Suggested fabric: cady, satin or shantung.
“crèpe”

Mod. 1619
Mt. 1,60 alt. 1,40. Available in sizes 42, 44, 46, 48, 50.
This form-fitting skirt is loosened at the bottom and is made of five panels with full hips
~has “gathers at the waistband”

Mod. 1637
Mt. 1,50 alt. 1,40. Available in sizes 42, 44, 46, 48.
This form-fitting jacket is reminiscent of the 1960’s. It has a broad, rounded shawl neckline and turned up collar, an inserted belt and oblique flaps on the rounded yoke. The 3/4 sleeves have slits at the cuffs. Suggested fabric: faille, piquet, microfiber.
“Slanted”

Mod. 1661
Mt. 1,40 alt. 1,40. Available in sizes 42, 44, 46.
This straight, form-fitting dress has a neckline that is square at the front and V-shaped at the back. It has double darts that converge at the center and inset pockets. Suggested fabric: denim, linen, piquet.
“This shaped slim fitted dress”,
“pique”

Mod. 1663
Mt. 1,60 alt. 1,40. Available in sizes 42, 44, 46, 48.
This straight, somewhat form-fitting shirt-waist dress opens at the front. It has a belted waist, short drop sleeves softened by gathers, a shirt neckline, oblique darts and side slits. Suggested fabric: cotton batiste, taffeta, light denim.
“Slanted darts”

Mod. 1706
Mt. 1,50 alt. 1,40. Available in sizes 42, 46, 50, 54, 58.
This tight-fitting blouse has a torchon motif at the neckline that creates draping and 3/4 shirt sleeves. Suggested fabric: jersey, cotton muslin, satin.
“A twisted center front neckline”

Mod. 1714
Mt. 2,10 alt. 1,40. Available in sizes 42, 44, 46, 48.
This dress has a bodice with soft draping at the neckline secured with a jewel fastener.The flared skirt has wedges inserted at the bottom. Suggested fabric: jersey or satin.
“Inset godets”

Mod. 1725
Mt. 2,80 alt. 1,40. Available in sizes 42, 44, 46, 48, 50, 54.
This form-fitting dress has panels which are flared at the bottom. It has a low-cut empire waist bodice and overlaid panels which are knotted and draped to create a shrug effect. Suggested fabric: cady with panel and flared sleeves in chiffon.
“crèpe”

Mod. 1774
Mt. 2,30 alt. 1,40. Available in sizes 42, 44, 46, 50, 54, 58.
This elegant tunic has a cowl collar and handkerchief sleeves made of two superimposed layers. The bottom of the panels is rounded and crossed. Suggested fabric: crêpe de chine, chiffon or muslin.
“Two overlapped layers”

Mod. 1792
Mt. 2,80 alt. 1,40. Available in sizes 42, 44, 46.
This American-style slip dress has torchon shoulder straps knotted behind the collar, a wide embroidered or lace waistband and long flared skirt. Suggested fabric: chiffon, voile, jersey, satin.
“twisted”

9 Comments

  1. I saw “Torchon” in the catalogue and immediately thought of “fleurchons” and wondered if the terms were related. Thanks for the rosetta stone!

    Comment by Gorgeous Things — July 2, 2008 @ 6:51 pm

  2. Hope the instructions are just as easy to read?
    Sharon

    Comment by Handmaiden — July 3, 2008 @ 12:10 am

  3. Sharon, Marfy patterns come with NO instructions, and no seam allowances. The pattern pieces are not marked, although there are notches and grainlines. However, they are single sized and usually the fit is much more elegant and European than anything from the USA. You can see the Marfy catalog at Vogue Patterns’ website, and there is information about what you *don’t* get with a Marfy pattern very clearly stated.

    Comment by georgene — July 3, 2008 @ 12:24 am

  4. Yep, I got into convulsions with the “smeared” fabric as well – I was reading the description out loud to other occupants of my car and it sent practically everyone into whoops.

    Comment by Toby Wollin — July 3, 2008 @ 7:10 am

  5. I guess they must use one of the on line translation sites. I tried to put in some Spanish instructions from Patrones. Not really worth the time, they just don’t have sewing terms. I printed out Paco’s translations and they help, but he doesn’t include fabric translations and sometimes they are pretty strange.

    Comment by Nancy — July 3, 2008 @ 1:08 pm

  6. So glad this translation and the links to the great articles were shared here. I’m sure I’m not the only Marfy challenged person around.

    Comment by Mary Beth — July 3, 2008 @ 6:06 pm

  7. Marfy are italian patterns… so getting transalation (one line or not) can be the best, or “not the worst” thing to do😉
    As french people (sorry for my bad english), I can tell you that the french translation from Marfy catalogue is betwen strange and funny😉
    We discuss this fact in this topic http://artisanssquare.com/sg/index.php/topic,1264.0.html on a sewing forum.

    Just another comment : Diva I like your blog, I learn a lot with it and I enjoy to read it.

    Comment by Miaaa — July 3, 2008 @ 10:26 pm

  8. Great post! Halfway through I went into Jeapordy mode and tried to guess the answers before reading. Very informative.

    Comment by Bunny — July 5, 2008 @ 10:05 am

  9. I love your blog, it is on my daily favorites. I am sewing my first Marfy pattern 1502. I am stuck on the insertion of the godets at the lower edge of the hem. I saw you godet instruction but the godets that are presented for the pattern are not triangular, they have a rounded edge and need to be attached to one another. The pattern describes them as a volant ruffle? HELP

    Comment by Patricia Gabrielson — October 19, 2008 @ 6:50 am


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