THE SEWING DIVAS sewing, design, fashion

March 11, 2008

Hot Patterns Geisha Girl Jacket

Filed under: Fabric,Patterns — phyllisc @ 2:30 pm

Believe it or not – I made a muslin.  Not so much for fit, but more for proportion.  Loose styles can be overwhelming so I had be sure this jacket didn’t hang like a sack.  This simple style has come nice dtails.  I like the way the collar stands away from the body and frames the neck, and the length is high hip.

The dropped shoulder was taken up 1/2 inch, and I raised the armhole a bit as well because the muslin was binding across my back.

One thing I have to modify is the construction to make the jacket reversible.  In the original instructions, the facings are on the inside, and the edges are folded under, pressed, and then stitched down.  I’ve moved the facings to the right side, and I really didn’t want to manually fold down the edges all the way around the jacket.  Another thing to factor in was interfacing; a fusible was just tad too stiff, so I used silk organza and the Balloon Applique technique from my holiday dress.  The black silk organza also acts as a soft interfacing, and I will hand fell stitch the facings to the fashion fabric.  This fabric requires a lot of basting; it ravels, snags and pulls easily,and after reading Marji’s blog I think it might even be necktie silk – she’s using a similiar fabric for her latest jacket..

In the full length view above the outer edge of the facing is machine basted, and the inner edge will be hand fell stitched to the fashion fabric.  There’s no lining yet. I need to attach the facing and then I can line it.  The sewing is going fast; the hand finishing will take more time. 


  1. Wow, it looks beautiful! The mix of fabrics really make it a “geisha” jacket.

    Comment by LauraLo — March 12, 2008 @ 5:50 am

  2. Very elegant Phyllis, is a simple pattern, but the outcome is in sight. Greetings, Paco

    Comment by Paco Peralta — March 12, 2008 @ 6:30 am

  3. For everyone who is shunning florals due to overkill in recent years, REJOICE! Honey, THAT is the way to “make it work” and proves you can also “make it new”. Very lovely and refreshing!

    Comment by Meg — March 15, 2008 @ 10:24 am

  4. Outstanding job as always, Phyllis!

    Comment by Tany — March 16, 2008 @ 4:27 am

  5. Love the way you’re treating this jacket. I really like the contrast of the solid red over the floral and the fact that this will be reversible.
    Will you insert the lining before hand fell stitching the facing down?
    And I’d agree, it looks just like tie silk. Lovely weight and drape (but the stuff ravels like a bear – I noticed that you serged the seamed edge before turning it)

    Comment by Marji — March 16, 2008 @ 7:50 am

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