THE SEWING DIVAS sewing, design, fashion

November 18, 2007

Holiday 2007 – Vogue 8313, Muslin Mania

Filed under: Embellishment,Fit/Pattern Alterations,Patterns — phyllisc @ 8:22 pm

So far, I’m up to muslin No.4  on Vogue 8313 and here they are from left to right:

I’m not in the least upset that it’s taken me four muslins to correct the fit, because the challenges are totally due to my shape.  Vogue slopers, as well as McCall’s, have linebacker shoulders, and I’m just the opposite.  When I tried on the original muslin, even though it was a 14, my normal size, the upper bodice was so big it slid right off my shoulders! 

In addition to having narrow shoulders, one shoulder is also higher than the other, and the pattern pieces, when laid out flat (this is after adjustment), really do look very different from each other:

Pretty crazy right?  The differences between the two sides of my body are really apparent when the flat pattern pieces are compared against the Vogue original (the seam allowances have been removed):

Needless to say, I’ll have to do a single-layer layout when I cut the fashion fabric.  The back upper bodice piece didn’t need the indvidual attention of the front, so I’ll able to use one pattern piece:

A few more tweaks and I should be ready to move onto the fashion fabric.  The Swarovski crystals are on their way from Fire Mountain Gems & Beads, and I discovered that  I do have enough fabric for applique seams at the sides.  Gotta order some black silk organza for an interlining, and then the fun begins!



  1. This is very cool to see. I wonder how many of us are asymmetrical and never bother to check.

    Comment by Laura — November 19, 2007 @ 2:44 am

  2. I had to smile when I saw those muslins – from recent experience, I know how important it is to continue on until the fit is just right.

    Most people are assymetrical to one degree or other. Most of the time it is not obvious. I certainly didn’t know I had differing shoulder slopes until I started all the trench coat muslins, and others commented on that fact! That’s just one of joys of blogging and having better eyes looking at my projects.

    Comment by Summerset — November 19, 2007 @ 5:06 am

  3. This is the best argument I have ever seen for making a muslin — or two – or three! I know that I have one high hip and one high shoulder, but I would have never thought to make separate pattern pieces.

    Comment by Mary OK — November 19, 2007 @ 7:07 am

  4. I agree with Mary OK; this article illustrates what sometimes needs to be done to achieve fitting perfection. Thank you so much for sharing this procedure with all of us, it’s highly appreciated.

    Comment by Tany — November 19, 2007 @ 9:22 am

  5. I love that you’ve made that many muslins. I hate having to do it but I always love the finished garment once I’ve done it (I think one of the girls is smaller than the other). I do love that dress pattern and I thought about making it for myself with bead embellishments from some navy tropical wool. I don’t think I have time, so I’ll live vicariously through you. Yours is going to be stunning!

    Comment by Melody — November 19, 2007 @ 12:49 pm

  6. Your 4 muslin post came just at the right time for me. I just finished making one muslin and was discouraged that the fit was so far off that I would have to make another. Now I see that to achieve a great fit, you have to keep trying. Thank you! Can’t wait to see your finished project.

    Comment by Pat — November 19, 2007 @ 3:25 pm

  7. I know all of your efforts will be rewarded with a perfectly fitting dress that will be a joy to wear!

    Comment by Gigi — November 19, 2007 @ 5:45 pm

  8. Well, the end result will be worth it! thanks for sharing.

    Comment by Vicki — November 20, 2007 @ 4:40 am

  9. Thanks for sharing the process…this is fascinating!

    Comment by Carolyn — November 20, 2007 @ 10:15 pm

  10. Thank you for posting this. It’s so nice to see someone who’s making muslins using muslin and actually working through the fit issues. Especially timely as validation too, as I’ve spent all 12 hours this week that I’ve had to sew working on a muslin for a jacket. (it took 3 tries – fit is crucial on this one)

    Comment by Marji — December 2, 2007 @ 9:45 am

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