THE SEWING DIVAS sewing, design, fashion

June 15, 2009

Butterick 5365 Connie Crawford Modern Fit Blouse

Filed under: Fit/Pattern Alterations,Mary Beth,Pattern Reviews,sewing — Mary Beth @ 3:34 pm

You can’t judge this book by its cover. I would not have purchased this pattern based upon the pattern envelope.

B5365

But I have taken a short workshop with Connie Crawford and have many of her text books. I know that she knows her stuff, I’ve seen her patterns made up and how they flatter larger women. And I know she is an excellent pattern maker so I took a chance that this might be the blouse I’ve been looking for and made up the large in the Miss sizing range.

I have done an in-depth review of it at PatternReview.com because it is a sweet blouse pattern, well drafted and graded and very relaxing to sew up. There were some problems with the instructions but I hope I have provided the fixes for them in my review (link supplied above).

I made View A darts from the shoulder with the long sleeves from View B. I used a well aged silk crepe de chine from the stash.

The illustrations show a small collar, especially in the Version B drawing. Not true! It’s a nice normal collar and the one pattern piece is used for both versions of the blouse.

TheFront

And those long darts over the bust? They actually release about 1.5″ above the second button. I’ve marked up the stitched lines so you can see them more clearly.

collar, darts & armscye

The collar has a very nice shape to it. It curves up over the shoulder and is nicely rounded in the back but the illustration shows it to be a straight, unshaped collar.

The seam allowances are 3/8″ used for the neckline, collar, center front and cuffs. Smart! It makes these pieces easier to join and to turn. The side seams and sleeves joining seams are the ubiquitous 5/8″ allowances.

There are no fancy methods in this pattern’s instructions. You hand stitch the inside of the collar band and the cuffs. Except for the problems above, it’s a great pattern to use for your first blouse, no fancy “burrito” methods, etc. I just relaxed and sewed, slowly. The kind of simple sewing that was so needed after struggling through a kimono made without pattern pieces.

I love the fit. Next time I make this blouse or a variation of it I will slant the shoulder seam down slightly and give the shoulder line an ever-so-slight concave curve.

The sleeves are the perfect length for me without shortening them. The shoulders sit perfectly, the length of the shoulder seam ends right at my shoulder point. I can reach forward comfortably. It’s just perfect. It put it on and I get happy.

back

The four darts do not release a lot of extra fabric fullness over the bust

side

The button placement is interesting, too. The first button down the front is 1 1/4″ from the collar band so that it can be buttoned with a nice and modest spread to the collar.

front

The second and third buttons are 3 1/4″ apart so that the third is exactly placed horizontally between the bust points, preventing the dreaded gaposious. The rest of the buttons down the front are 3 9/16″ apart and end 2″ above the hemline so that the blouse can be worn untucked and neat. Next time I might make it a bit longer.

Under that awful illustration is a very well graded and well drafted classic that provides a lovely alternative to side or waist darts.

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15 Comments

  1. I agree. It looks better made up than on the pattern cover.

    Comment by Trudy Callan — June 15, 2009 @ 4:13 pm

  2. It definitely looks better on you than on the cover. BTW, I LOVE your hair!

    Comment by Gorgeous Things — June 15, 2009 @ 5:22 pm

  3. That is good to know. Hooray for Butterick! The blouse look very nice. OK–when B goes on sale at Jo’s-it’s on my list!

    Comment by Gwen — June 15, 2009 @ 5:24 pm

  4. Great looking blouse.

    Comment by Els — June 15, 2009 @ 5:45 pm

  5. Your blouse is lovely. The fashion illustrations on the pattern envelope really don’t do that pattern justice. I wonder how/why it was approved in the first place? The flat pattern drawings even look quite different.

    Comment by sophie — June 15, 2009 @ 6:10 pm

  6. This blouse looks beautiful on you! The fit is perfect – the fabric is gorgeous and I love the pleat detail. Your review is excellent too :)))))

    Comment by Ann's Fashion Studio — June 15, 2009 @ 6:13 pm

  7. Great to know! I’m so glad this pattern is a good one–I thought the dart and tuck options were very 1940s when I first saw it, and I like the shaping at the side seams. The pattern envelope, well, I feel the same as pretty much everybody else about that one :)

    Comment by all is on — June 15, 2009 @ 7:18 pm

  8. MaryBeth, I love this blouse and you’re right, I had no intention of buying this pattern, until now. You’re blouse came out beautifully. Does it have bust cup sizing and if so, which did you chose?

    Comment by Sherril Miller — June 16, 2009 @ 9:56 am

  9. Gosh, your blouse does look great–and it is clearly not the fashion illustration!
    Here’s where getting a close view of the pattern flats that have been drafted is important.
    (providing those were done with accuracy).

    It’s a shame that with so many talented fashion illustrators who understand apparel to choose from, this one has been selected to illustrate patterns–it’s not about interpretation, but rather about accuracy, right?

    Comment by Jen — June 16, 2009 @ 10:53 am

  10. There seems to be a lot of interest in blouses lately, including around here. One can only use so many knit tops before it’s time for a woven fabric blouse. This does have great lines, Happy to know that the draft is good. You’re absolutely right though, the pattern illustration isn’t going to sell this pattern. Thanks for the review. I think it’ll go on my list to get at the next sale.

    Comment by Marji — June 17, 2009 @ 9:18 pm

  11. A very lovely blouse , Mary Beth!

    Thanks for the heads-up on this pattern..and your great review!

    Comment by Pam ~Off The Cuff~ — June 18, 2009 @ 5:32 am

  12. [...] Filed under: Sewing, Shirtmaking | Last week I finished a blouse for me. I posted about it over at The Sewing Divas and at PatternReview.com where thankfully it was well received. I hesitate to post at PatternReview [...]

    Pingback by Shirt Making « The Stitchery — June 22, 2009 @ 4:18 pm

  13. Hi Connie,

    Want to tell you how much I enjoyed the seminar at the the SEW EXPO last weekend.

    I want to come to the fundraiser in May. Please send me the information.

    Jo Boyett

    Comment by Jo Boyett — March 6, 2010 @ 9:44 pm

  14. Sign me onto your e-mail news letter

    Comment by Joyce — April 25, 2010 @ 6:35 pm

  15. Hi Joyce and Jo Boyett:

    This is not Connie Crawford’s site. You should go directly to Connie’s site http://www.fashionpatterns.com/ and send her your messages.

    This is a blog called TheSewingDivas.

    Comment by Mary Beth — April 25, 2010 @ 8:18 pm


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