THE SEWING DIVAS sewing, design, fashion

July 14, 2008

Double-fold knit binding

Filed under: Tutorials — Gigi @ 2:52 pm

Many of us have these binding plates for our machines. I have two for my Bernina and quite a few for my coverstitch machine and industrial zigzag (which also fit the Bernina) and two for my walking-foot machine. When I bought my first binder I was terrified to use it but, like the narrow-hem foot, once you get the hang of it they are so easy to use and give great results! Before we get started, please note that your machine must have attachment holes on the bed in order for you to use industrial-style binding plates. I can use these on my Bernina but not on my Pfaff so check your particular machine. Some machines use a special foot instead.

Yes, you can bind in the round but it can be pretty fiddly when using a knit – it’s not bad on placemats with cotton fabrics. You’ll need to insert the fabric before taking any stitches and then stop before you reach where you started so that you can join the ends and fold the edges under and stitch. This method has been filed in my Life’s Too Short folder. This is the type of thing I would do on a fine garment where I wouldn’t be using a binding plate in the first place.

On a surplice neckline you’ll sew the shoulder seams and then just bind from one edge to the other. On other necklines you will sew one shoulder seam only, bind the edge, then sew the remaining shoulder seam closed. This is how it’s done in RTW and it is perfectly acceptable.

attachmentholes

There are basically three types of binders:

Double-Fold: Raw edges are folded under on the top and the bottom. The binding looks the same from both sides.

Single-Fold: The raw edge is folded under on top only. This is the type of binder used most often with a coverstitch machine as the bottom raw edge is encased by the looper threads.

Raw Edge: A raw edge binder is generally used to bind edges with a tape or other non-ravelling binding such as leather or ribbon. However, it can also be used with pre-folded bias tape.

The binder on the left is made for my Bernina along with the binding foot. Like all things Bernina I had to pay the big bucks for it – I think it was around $80 ten years ago. Then I discovered the wonderful world of Industrial Attachments! I purchased the binder on the right from my local industrial machine shop for under $20 and it works just as well as the Bernina binder and is available in many different widths. If a binding foot is not available for your machine you can have one made by your local mechanic or make your own! This involves buying an extra zigzag or open-toe foot and having the right toe cut off and then buffed smooth.

inders

The binder used on my top makes a 1/4″ finished double-fold binding. This is the same binder I use on placemats. It works beautifully with knits especially if you cut them a smidgen wider than what the binder calls for. This causes the fabric to stretch a little as it passes through and allows the neckline to hug your body quite nicely.

The fabric I used is a polyester ribbed sweater knit from Glick Textiles. I save scraps of knits I think I might want to use as bindings (and they are the ONLY scraps I save!) because they can add such an interesting touch to a garment – that little extra something that can give you that expensive RTW look. As long as it’s an 1/8 yard or more it goes into the scrap bin.

Step 1: Cut your knit binding on the crossgrain (or direction of greatest stretch) to the width needed for your particular binder. My binder takes strips 1 1/8″ wide. If you buy an industrial binding plate the width will be stamped on the plate itself. That being said I often cut binding wider – for knits and bias wovens – as the width tends to decrease as it’s pulled through the attachment. You’ll need to experiment a little bit with scraps to find the right width for your particular fabric and project. I cut my knit 1 3/8″ wide on the crossgrain for this project. A rotary cutter and quilting ruler is perfect for this job!

Step 2: Angle cut one end of your strip and feed it into the binder before you attach it to your machine. You can use a pin or seam ripper to gently move it along.

point

pullthrough1

pullthrough2

Step 3: Attach binding plate and pull the folded binding under the presser foot. Change your needle position as desired and take a few stitches to secure the end. Here is where you want to make sure everything is even and folded properly before you stitch. A bad start will result in a poorly sewn binding.

secureend

Then feed your garment into the binder and watch your beautiful finished edge emerge!

feedingin

With a double-fold binder your edge will look the same on both sides.

bothsides

I’m going to be a copycat and insert my parting shot here! I could not resist because Ricki looks so cute here vying for my attention as I type. She is such a honey.

ricki

About these ads

17 Comments

  1. [...] Binding Mini-Tutorial July 14, 2008 As promised, the mini-tutorial is up on the Sewing Divas [...]

    Pingback by Binding Mini-Tutorial « Behind The Seams — July 14, 2008 @ 2:58 pm

  2. Thanks Gigi for this tutorial.

    Comment by Els — July 14, 2008 @ 5:13 pm

  3. Thanks – I have used the binders for my coverstitch machine, but there are a few tips I’ve picked up from your tutorial.

    Comment by Summerset — July 14, 2008 @ 5:55 pm

  4. I love my CS binders – I don’t think I could live without them. I even used it today! :-)

    Comment by MelissaB — July 14, 2008 @ 7:26 pm

  5. Your tutorial showed me what I was missing out on… I want a binder… I have a New Home… so I will have to take a trip to the sew and vac store to see what they have or what can be used… thank you for sharing:)

    Comment by Shelly G. — July 15, 2008 @ 12:24 am

  6. Great tutorial… You can use binders on any machine with the use of Blue Tack and/or duct tape!

    Comment by Susannah — July 15, 2008 @ 6:08 am

  7. Love the cat. He’s adorable.

    Comment by Miss Janey — July 15, 2008 @ 1:19 pm

  8. Thanks for the great tutorial.

    Comment by sheila — July 15, 2008 @ 1:53 pm

  9. Gigi, another wonderful tutorial, thank you.
    I have quite a number (different sizes) of industrial binders collected via the ‘bay but didn’t know a special presser foot is needed. Now I’ll have to rectify that.
    Your tutorials ALWAYS rock!

    Comment by Gemma — July 15, 2008 @ 6:55 pm

  10. Thanks for the tutorial! I have not industrial binder but a binding foot that is quite similar. Love-love the parting shot of your cat.

    Comment by LauraLo — July 16, 2008 @ 9:14 am

  11. I had never thought of making binding with knits! I have a binder foot that I paid good money for when I bought my machine and I’ve never used it. Off to go dig it out now…

    Comment by Christina — July 16, 2008 @ 10:55 am

  12. Excited, but confused.
    First of all I have a Bernina — hope springs!!!
    But I’m clueless when it comes to industrial machines. How do I determine if one will work with my machine (acutually I have two – an 1130, and a 1630) Where do I find this industrial part? Do you possibly have an online source?
    Thank!

    Comment by designdreamer — July 16, 2008 @ 8:35 pm

  13. Designdreamer, what you want is the binder that is shown on the right in the photo above. A great place to buy one is from http://www.cutsewservice.com – I’ve bought a lot of attachments from them. They also sell on Ebay under the user id “sharpsewing”. You can get the thumb (attachment) screw from your dealer as well as the foot which is #94.

    Comment by Gigi — July 18, 2008 @ 3:27 pm

  14. Thanks for that source Gig, but I didn’t see any that looked exactly like the one in your photo — there are definitely similar ones . . . . I just want to make sure what I get will fit my machine, and I’m not sure how I can determine that.

    Comment by designdreamer — July 19, 2008 @ 2:25 pm

  15. Gigi, thank you so much for posting this tutorial! You inspired me to break out my Bernina binder that had been languishing in a drawer and now I’m binding everything in sight. I had been so fearful of it, and now I love it as much as the narrow hemmer. If you do one on rufflers, I’d be all set :)
    kristi (back to lurking now)

    Comment by kristi — August 10, 2008 @ 6:06 pm

  16. What a great tutorial! Do you mind if I put a link to it on my blog? I want to start binding everything now!

    Comment by Abby — August 22, 2008 @ 10:50 pm

  17. Thank you so much for posting this! I’ve been struggling with a binding attachment I purchased for my industrial machine. It came with a tiny scrap of instructions – in Chinese. Since my language skills are lacking, your tutorial was so much more helpful!

    Comment by amyb — September 13, 2008 @ 3:43 pm


RSS feed for comments on this post.

The Rubric Theme. Blog at WordPress.com.

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 618 other followers

%d bloggers like this: