This Vogue pattern 1476 was in my stash for several years now waiting to be made.
The coat takes a lot of fabric 4,5 meter which should not have visible difference in a right and wrong side and finally I found the fabric on sale a woollen tweed 80 % wool 20 % acrylic for only € 7,95 per meter.
And since I needed a lot of fabric the fabric weight was important too ,so if you want to make this pattern look for a kind of drapery fabric.
This pattern although it looks quite unusual is very easy to sew.
The pattern has only a few pattern parts but need a lot of space for the layout. I used two tables side by side for the layout and cutting.
The fabric is cut on the crossgrain instead of the usual length grain.
Since I am nearly 6 foot (1.81cm) I lengthened the pattern at the coat and sleeve part and add some length to the yoke part.
Vogue gives instructions how to sew this pattern but I did not like to do a lot of top-stitching so I skipped that part. Since my fabric is very easy to ravel I start serging all the seams first. I used a three thread serger seam which makes it easier to fold that line to the inside and press it down.
I lined the yoke/ sleeve part and the pockets , also made an inside pocket from the lining.
I also altered the pockets design, the pockets pattern is a rectangle shape, but I decided after I made and lined them I did not like them. So I made a new pair of pockets, the instructions are not for lined pockets just fold the seam allowance in and top-stitch but I like my pockets lined so I did.
The inside pocket is stitched behind the outer pocket which I thread traced first to know where to stitch the inside pocket.
Also added a pair of tailored shoulder pads,( sewn between the lining and the fabric) to balance the wide of the coat.
Fused strips of interfacing at the front edges at the seam allowance, which are cut on the crossgrain for stability.
I did not top-stitched the facing of the sleeve hems, but bind the edges with bias cut lining and hand-sewed the hem facing.
I lined the yoke/sleeve part which is helpful to wear the coat it slides more easily over the garments like a sweater since there is a lining attached.
The lining is sewed by machine sandwiched between the yoke and back coat pattern, and hand stitched along the neckline and sleeve part.
Sewed the male part at the underlay and the female part at the overlay but decided to remove them and switch to a different way of attaching the snap because I did not liked the visible way of the snap when the coat is worn without the closure.
Te large 3 cm snap has a deep hollow part that was visible from the outside( imprint)
The female part is sewn from the inside with a backing of a circle of silk organza for stability and the male part is pushed between the wool threads so that part is only visible and useful.
Also a backing from silk organza is used for reinforcement.