Paris Calling, Circa 1957 February 9, 2008
Now that I have a proper dress form, I can show you one of my prize pieces of fashion. This coat belonged to my grandmother; she bought it from a department store called Pomeroy’s in Wilkes-Barre Pennsylvania sometime in the late 1950’s. The coat has a Pomeroy’s store label, and the fabric label reads Cashmere “400″, 100% Virgin Cashmere, Country Tweeds” and is ink-stamped with a 6-digit registration number.
During the 50’s better department stores had made-to-order clothing departments, and I think that’s where this coat came from. It’s really beautiful and has many interesting features that I thought you’d like to see. The lining is mushroom grey beige silk crepe. The coat wraps across the front and closes with a large self fabric button on the front and ties with a matching petersham ribbon on the inside.
Much to my delight, a while ago I found the inspiration for this coat: the back of the coat, and especially the gathered detail on the yoke, is identical to a Balenciaga dress from 1957 found on page 542 of Fashion: A History from the 18th to th 20th Century. Interestingly, the Balenciaga dress originally came with a matching coat according to the caption, and evidently, like my coat, the front of the dress wraps across the front and attaches with a self fabric button as well.
I wear this coat a few times a year and it fits me perfectly. It’s in excellent condition too, which is a testament to its fine construction. They really don’t make them like this anymore do they?
What a lovely coat, and how nice that you can wear it!
Oh Phyllis! It’s wonderful! Thank you so much for posting the pictures. All the details are just too perfect.
Beautiful! Thanks for sharing. I’m sad to see the local department stores gone along with their unique items.
They sure don’t make those anymore. It seams everything nowadays it made not to last on purpose. For consumers to consume even more. Still there is so much talk about durability and environmental friendly thinking. It’s sad. Beautiful coat though! Thanks!
Great coat. When I was growing up, Syracuse and Binghamton, NY both had local dept. stores that had made-to-order depts. The Addis Company in Syracuse was especially known for their beautiful clothing. It’s nice to know that Wilkes-Barre, only 60 miles away from me here in Binghamton, was able to provide such beautiful things for its customers.
I love this coat … I have one similar in style to it from Hot Patterns, the Cheery Blossom coat. I stopped working on it as the proportions seemed off to me (or on me). I do think that your wider collar is more flattering than the pattern I have, though. If I had the extra fabric, I’d recut wider. I do like the gathered back yoke. That is an element I don’t have in my coat.
Phyllis.- Very interesting how this coat. I wish that conserves many years, always will be a model “unique”. I know the Balenciaga dress which you refer. It is published in the book “History of Fashion” by the Institute for clothing Kyoto, page 532. Wonderful. Greetings . Paco
Gorgeous coat and fabric. Quality in design and content always lasts, doesn’t it?
My mouth is hanging open. That does NOT look like a 50 year old coat. It is, however, a testament to the notion that quality beats quantity. Lucky you!
What a beautiful coat! Folkwear has a similar style, called, I believe, The Spectator Coat. I’ve been wanting to make it in cotton velvet for years now — you have re-inspired me.
Great looking coat!!!
Thank you for sharing this piece of art with us, Phillys! It’s fantastic and very inspiring! It’s a timeless garment!
Just wondering what the cost of this coat was, back then! With the price of Cashmere today!
[...] Separated at Birth February 21, 2008 Filed under: Designer Inspirations, Phyllis, Vintage Sewing — phyllisc @ 8:58 am Our good friend from Barcelona, Paco Peralta, sent me this photo of the Balenciaga dress that inspired my vintage cashmere coat. [...]
Hi Phyllis,
I’m just “meeting”you and your wonderful blog for the first time. I hope you wear this beautiful coat over your wonderful red and black dress. Both are works of art. Thank you for keeping the art of couture alive. We have a wealth of everything to choose from, on the surface, but the depth is missing in so many places. I’d rather have one coat like yours than five lesser creations. Perhaps, with the rise of conservation and the ecology movement, the disposable society will die out, and people will want to create clothing that lasts once again.
I can’t imagine what a cashmere coat like that would cost today, but you can’t beat natural fibres for warmth and good looks. Thanks for sharing your piece of family history with us.
Sue