Armani Prive - A Better Bubble Skirt January 27, 2008
I’m sure like most of you; I’m not a huge fan of bubble skirts for a host of obvious reasons. But the spring 2008 Armani Prive collection has several that are a tad different from what we usually see, and I think they are also much more flattering. Here are my faves:
One thing interesting about this skirt on all three designs is the separate hem band along the bottom, and of course I had to see if I could replicate it! The first step was to find some detail photos, and these two of the pinstripe design were really helpful:
Notice the side seam, and also the pinstripes tell us that this skirt is bias cut. So we know for this style there are two side seams on both the skirt and the hem band. I drafted a quick pattern for my daughters 18 inch doll dress form:
Nothing fancy, just a basic A-line shape. I drafted the skirt on the straight grain, although most in the Armani collection appear to be on the bias. There are also a few tulip skirt shapes here and there. The hem bands appear to have fashion fabric facings on the tailored designs, and I’m beginning to think there are also fashion fabric hem band facings on the dress silks.
Oh and I think Mary 9821 is perfect for the jacket on the tweed suit - all you need to do is change the center front closure to the Armani curved lapped front, lower the neckline, add the petal edges at the bottom of the princess seams, flair the sleeves at the wrist, and build out those classic YSL-style shoulders.
This Armani collection is inspiring and very beautiful, so definitely check it out on Style.com and also see the video on The Thoughtful Dresser. It’s an utterly wearable collection that any of us could see in our wardrobes (well, maybe without the funky embellishment!)
Thank you for this post. I love this rendition of the tulip skirt and I agree that the hem makes it so much more wearable for the average person.
I also noticed those skirts. I especially like the dressy blue satin. I think it is fuller than the pin-striped versions. All are very nice and wearable. I wonder what they would look like in dupioni?
I really like the new take on the bubble skirt and your version is looking good.
I like the new look of the bubble skirt and your version is looking good.
Ah, Phyllis - I see you are definitely “Johnny-on-the-spot” with your drafting. but, as I thought - it was not a simple strip - looks terrific. You have to link to Linda’s blog — if nothing else we have introduced her to “Advanced Clothing Engineering 101″.
I think of these more as a “lantern” shape than a bubble shape. I am someone with a pronounced pear shape…much larger hips than torso, and I find this line quite flattering. I think that the ‘bubbled” hem has a way of balancing the hips. I have made several things with this line and have worn them all a lot. You’ve inspired me…maybe it’s time for another!
Yes Phyllis, this line skirt is very inspiring and combined with small bodies above the silhouette is enough stylized as the skirt itself does not have too much volume. Thank you for the pattern. Sincerely, Paco
Great post Phyllis. I agree with Dawn that this hemline style reminds me of the “Chinese lantern” shapes.
Phyllis - I think you and I need to pack up our sewing machines and pay Linda Grant a visit. Perhaps introduce her to the wonders of fabric addition, too. Between the two of us, I’m sure we could run her up several dresses over a weekend!!!
Great pictures!
I stumbled across your great blog, and have some news that may interest you and your readers. I work at JR Language Translations, and we just finished translating the Spring pattern catalog for Simplicity into German.
It will be launched in Europe in February.
Enjoy!
Thanks for sharing this with us. I am also intrugued by the little fabric (ribbon?) triangle embellishments…
Great post, Phyllis! So inspiring! I love this style from the new Armani Prive collection!
Christina, I think those mobius-like embellishmnts are made from strips of the fashion fabric. If you look closely on the right detail photo they appear to be attached with a tiny black rivet.