THE SEWING DIVAS sewing, design, fashion

May 4, 2007

Circular ruffle neckline finish

Filed under: Els,Pattern Drafting,sewing,Tutorials — Els @ 2:36 pm

 Some of you will remember that I made a skirt with inset godets for my mother which I did a post on this blog.

 I made a blouse from the same fabric and finished the neckline with a circular ruffle.

 I used the instructions how to measure and draft a pattern for a circular ruffle from the book

 “Couture the Art of Fine Sewing” by Roberta Carr.

 I used 3 circular ruffles for the neckline and because I did not want to finish the outer-edge with a serger.

 I doubled the patterns ( cut 6 circular patterns) and lined the collar with the same fabric for a neat finish.

 Anybody who have used a circular ruffle on a garment knows that if you want to use a facing the ruffle   tend to turn upwards toward the neck and that was not my goal, so I needed to cheat a little or used  common sense, because I was planning to use a facing instead of a bias binding.

 A ruffle which is bind with a bias binding will fall towards the garment.

The ruffle is sewn at the neckline and I did sew a hairline away from the stitching line around the neckline. I pinned the facing on top of the ruffle matching seam allowances and turned the garment inside out so I had a stitching guide from the first stitching of the ruffle  I sewed the facing a hairline inside the previous stitching.

Grade, clipped and pressed the seam allowances from the blouse, ruffle and facing.

Turned the facing to the inside but not all of it , I left a 1/4 inch (5 mm) visible on the outside which looks and act as a binding .The facing is sewed by hand in the ditch with tiny invisible stitches .The wide of the finished ruffle is 1 3/8 inch ( 3,5 cm)

Detail ruffle collar ,

The finished skirt and blouse,

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9 Comments

  1. That is so beautiful. I love ruffles.

    Comment by Isabelle — May 4, 2007 @ 2:51 pm

  2. Delicate and lovely. I prefer flounces (circular ruffles) over gathered ruffles anyday!

    Comment by Summerset — May 4, 2007 @ 3:49 pm

  3. Sweet! It looks just exactly right.

    Comment by Annika — May 4, 2007 @ 5:56 pm

  4. Wonderful precision sewing work! I’m quite impressed, the facing gives stability to the collar on this very sheer fabric and the false binding looks perfect, as if there were no facing! Thank you so much for sharing this! Your Mother must be very pleased!

    Comment by Tany — May 4, 2007 @ 7:48 pm

  5. I meant neckline instead of collar, sorry!

    Comment by Tany — May 4, 2007 @ 7:49 pm

  6. Very pretty!

    Roberta Carr’s book is one of my all time favorite sewing books.

    Comment by dawn — May 4, 2007 @ 10:45 pm

  7. This outfit is so very beautiful and delicate and airy as someone else mentioned before. I really love it. How does your mom feel about it, is she pleased?

    I need to re-read the description of how you made the ruffle again and look at the R.Carr’s book to see if there is something I had missed because I was certainly going to get rid of it.

    You must be feeling really proud of your beautiful work, I know I’d be.

    Comment by Gemma — May 7, 2007 @ 2:45 pm

  8. Els, that is a beautiful blouse. Truly a piece of work. I love the entire outfit.

    Comment by Linda L — May 12, 2007 @ 8:30 am

  9. Heel erg mooi! En hallo uit Brussel :)

    Comment by katharinec — May 14, 2007 @ 4:23 pm


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