Draft a Skirt with Godets March 21, 2007
 If you want to make a 6 panel skirt with godets but do not have a pattern, you can use your straight skirt pattern to make a new pattern.
For example I drafted a straight skirt with a side zipper. This skirt pattern example is 70 cm (Â 27,5 inches)Â long and I want to add godets with a length of 35 cm ( about 14 inches) and a hem wide of 20 cm ( 8 inches).
You should trace your straight skirt pattern and divide the skirt front and back pattern by 3, marking a line 1/3 the width away from the center front and center back panels on your pattern (see the drawing below).
Mark the desired godet length on the panels and side seams.
Move the waist darts towards the panel seams.
Mark on the pattern: center front on fold, center back on fold, side front part and back side part . This will help you to see which is which if you cut the pattern pieces. You can use scotch tape and label each cut piece.
The new panel skirt pattern looks like this example,
The new panel skirt pattern parts,
Drafting a godet is easy.
Start with a vertical line which indicates the length of the godet. The length I used here is 35 cm ( about 14 inches) Mark the beginning and end of the length.
I used a width of 20 cm( ( 8 inches)Â so I marked 10 cm ( 4 inches) to the left and 10 cm ( 4 inches) to the right from the base line length.
From the start of the baseline which is on top, measure the length you want I used 35 cm ( nearly 14 inches) and draw a new diagonal line towards the marking 1/2 width point at 10 cm (4 inches). Do the same for the other side. Now you need to mark the hemline which is not a straight one. You can use your measuring tape and hold it steady at the top and move the tape between the lines marking dots every 2,5 cm.( 1 inch) which you then connect .
If you want to sew the godets as insets then you can use the finished draft godet and cut this 6 times because it should be sewn at the panel seams.( front side , side and back side)
If you want to line your skirt you can use the same pattern but with some minor changes ( it is not necessary to use all the godets, a few will do to give your lining skirt enough walking ease) Since I am making this skirt from a semi sheer fabric I used the same traced pattern but I do not want to sew the panels to avoid see-through from the panel seams. I connected the traced skirt patterns next to each other and added only a half godet ( folded on the grain line) at the side seam at front and back pattern.I redrew a bit of the side seam just above the half godet for a more fluid line.Â
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The only thing that needs to be done now is adding seam allowances to the pattern parts and you can make your 6 panel godet skirt. Another option is to make the skirt with cut-on godets instead of the separate godets.
Add seam allowances and you are done.
Enjoy your new pattern.
Wow, wow. This is really awesome. Thanks! Reading this I’m thinking I should really be a subscriber or something.
Thank you Els for another wonderful tutorial! The half godets and the way you trued the lines to make it fluid really make all the difference!
Great tutorial! I’d love to see one of your creations on you!
So that is how it’s done … and I’d already spent $ on a pattern, darnit! Thanks for this very clear lesson in pattern drafting.
Great tutorial, Els. So easy to follow. Your lucky Mother’s going to love her new skirt!
As usual, an excellent tutorial on pattern drafting/altering! I love the idea of a cut-on godet. It would be very useful for fabric with which you’d like to eliminate all the bulk and seams from real godets. You’d get the fulness without the fuss.
Thank you for another wonderful tutorial Els!
Great tutorial!
Thanks for the very clear tutorial. I just drafted my first straight skirt and then successfully altered it for the godets. It looks great and fits perfectly! Hooray!
thanx 1 ur tutorial has been a gr8 help…..u saved my life (i had to submit pattrn for my submittn and cudn’t find it anywhere)…….i hope u hav such help for other styles as wel
Thanks for the help on skirt godets. do you or anyone else know a website i could refer to to find a godet that goes in hte bottom of a skirt where you have a different fabric gathered behind it?? i have searched allover and have so far come up with a big fat nothing!? help me!
This is great! I just drafted up a pattern based on your pictures. We’ll see how it goes.
I wonder how the godets differ from kick pleats other than the godet with pleats seem to be kick pleats
[...] one: Panelled skirt directions and another based on a straight skirt pattern: Draft a Skirt with Godets « The Sewing Divas McCall’s pattern M5523 has godet inserts McCall’s pattern M5429 has godet inserts McCall’s pattern [...]
Hi Els
I am not a sewer and as such I am struggling with the whole process. I can sew somewhat and once I work this out I know I will be able to sew what I want. My question is, I have 2 skirts (t/shirt type material that you twist to keep crinkly) like this pattern except they only have the side seams. Somehow the maker of them has made the front and back pieces whole and simply inserted the godets. Have you a pattern for that or is it a simple case of drafting up what you have shown here without cutting the original skirt pattern?
I want to make a full length wedding skirt from maybe chiffon/gorgette with a matching silk/satin type slip underneath.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Judy,
You can sew godets in any place you want. If you have a sewing technique book that will explain the process. It is important to stabilize the slash point of the seam where you want to sew the godet.
You can draft a godet pattern in the wide and length you prefer.
Good luck.